Loved NZ, and here are the reasons

This was a really special trip for us. Our first trip, even before we were married, was hitchhiking around Europe for months. We stayed in a small tent, and ate what we could buy in grocery stores. It was awesome. Our next big trip was a few years later, in 1975, when  we took our 74 Volks bug cross country for 6 weeks or so. We started by using the same tent we used in Europe, and then upgraded in Denver to a huge tent you could actually sit up in. At various times over the years, we've traveled with an 8 x 10 tent, a pop-up tent, a 19-foot hard sided trailer, a 35 foot class A motorhome, and a 28 foot motorhome. We've "moteled" it too. Usually we try to get our biggest bang for our buck, and save money where we can. 

This trip was a relatively last- minute choice for us, and as with most travel decisions we've made, settled on with little discussion. (Hey--you want to go to "fill in the blank"? Yeah, that'd be cool) What made it unique for us was that we decided to travel first class.

And rather than make all the accomodation and excursion reservations ourselves (aka me), we chose to have a tour company arrange everything: hotels, activities, transfers, travel methods. All we had to do was show up ( and pay the tour company).

So what we got was a fantastic trip in luxurious style, with activities that we loved. 

In these 3 weeks, we learned a lot about NZ , its culture, its plants, it's land, it's customs, and came away with a great deal of respect for this special place. If it weren't so far away from friends and family, and if I were looking for another country to live in, I would choose NZ. But I love the US -passionately, I couldn't be away from those I love, and I can't see myself ever leaving.

Along the way,  we had these minor observations about NZ:

• There are very few public waste receptacles in towns and cities. Yet the country is refreshingly clean. Even in Auckland, a city of 1.7MM people, there's no litter on the streets. Glorious!
• There are sheep everywhere. There are 4 sheep for every person in the country.
• In hotels, they give you 1 hand towel and 2 bath towels.
• In hotel rooms, they place 1 miniscule waste basket in the room.
• There is no tipping in restaurants. In casual restaurants,  you enter, check out the menu, and order and pay. Your food is delivered, you eat, then leave when you're done.
• Prices in the grocery store are reasonable.
• In summer (our only experience here), there are lots of tour busses and camper vans on the road.
• Other than sand flies, there are really not a lot of biting bugs here, even in the rainforest. But the sand flies are the equivalent of NH black flies, biting and itchy.
• Gas stations don't have trash receptacles or windshield wash cleaner or squeegee. 
• There are many one lane bridges. You may be driving on a 2 lane road at 60 mph, then find a one lane bridge ahead that requires you to stop and wait for a car coming in the opposite direction.
  
• Chinese tourists seem to make up over half the population.  We happened to be here during Chinese New Year, and I expect that made a difference. 
• There are signs along major road that warn: "Take care, Accident Black Spot"

Last full day in NZ, a different kind of garden,, February 27, 2026

 We got up late and had a wonderful breakfast of pancakes layered with banana and bacon, and topped with mascarpone and blueberry compote. Mmmm. A good part of our enjoyment of this trip has been the places we've stayed and the restaurants we've visited.

Today we drove an hour and a half north to Hamilton Gardens, an unusual grouping of 18 unique gardens. It's usually described as a botanical garden, but  it doesn't technically qualify as a botanical garden. Instead, it has separate gardens representing the art, beliefs, lifestyles and traditions of different civilisations or historical garden styles. Each garden is set off in its own space. 

There were the Italian, Egyptian, English, Surreal, Indian, Modern gardens and more. It's a quiet and relaxing place. We particularly enjoyed the Surreal Garden and the English gardens.

Hours later, we decided to head to Auckland, our final stop, where we will fly back to Phoenix tomorrow. We are staying at a hotel close to the airport to minimize the time to return the car, and avoid traffic. The drive north to Auckland was nasty, and punctuated with times of bumper to bumper traffic due to break downs or accidents. Google routed us around a 20 minute slowdown through some hilly, narrow roads. Kudos to Ray! That was the highlight of the drive back!

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QaS2DMC1HekMgJWv5

Walk in the treetops and a micro- Yellowstone, February 26, 2026

Before we set out for the day, we walked around the property of our hotel. They have decorated it with various pieces of interesting modern art, and some cages of parrots. One of the art pieces is a big pink bunny rear sticking out of the ground. It's a quirky, but elegant little place (12 rooms) with superb service. The concierge carried our bags up to our room (there's no elevator).

We went for a different kind of forest walk this morning.  Instead of walking on the forest floor, we were high above it among redwoods, on suspended bridges and platforms that have been designed to protect the trees. The trees themselves are about 250 feet tall, and 150 years old. Redwoods were introduced to New Zealand around 1901 in Rotorua as a government-led experiment to test the viability of fast-growing, high-quality exotic timber species. They were planted to replace rapidly depleted native forests and to assess their suitability for commercial forestry. Due to the rich soil, favorable climate,  and high rainfall, the trees grew faster in NZ than in their native California, reaching heights of 230 feet in just 100 years.

We thought it interesting that NZ and California are equidistant from the equator, one north , one south, and both provide favorable growing conditions for these trees. We enjoyed reading the information provided on the walk about these trees and the construction of the cabling. Great care was taken to protect the trees. 

I was surprised that they did not take care to highlight the difference between redwoods and giant sequoias, seeming to equate the 2 species. Redwoods are taller and thinner and grow on the coast. Sequoia are massive and grow at high elevations. They had a display showing information and a giant sequoia slice without mentioning and difference between the 2 species. At any rate, it was a cool experience.

We then headed south to the thermal area called Wai o Tapu. As we discovered, it's a micro-Yellowstone thermal display. They have bubbling pools, fumaroles, boiling water bubbling out of the earth and more, on a 1/10th scale to Yellowstone. Having been to Yellowstone several times, we enjoyed the walk, but were less than impressed.

By late afternoon, we drove back to Rotorua and checked out the restaurant scene there. There is a street called Eat Street lined with restaurants. Near there, we chose a little cafe for dinner. What a find-- the food was fresh, locally sourced (although I suppose they all are out of necessity), and delicious.

Pictures here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LZiLyGncH71P8V8w5

A Maori experience, February 25, 2026

This morning we left early to drive north to Christchurch to drop our car off, and catch a flight back to the north island. It was on a prop plane, and that turned out to be a blessing, because we enjoyed birds-eye views in clear skies of the whole trip. When we landed in Rotorua, we picked up our new rental, a RAV 4, and headed to check in at our accommodations a "boutique" lodge on the northwest side of Lake Rotorua. We are in 1 of 12 rooms here. 

After settling in with a glass of wine in the lounge, we set off for our evening activity, a visit to Te Pa Tu, a place that offers an opportunity to learn and experience the Maori culture and traditions. We arrived at the "Gathering Place" where there were many other people waiting for thekirl transportation to TePa Tu. We boarded a bus for the village, on en route, we're greeted by our Maori guide. He asked for a volunteer for an "important " job. After a bit of prodding from someone, Ray was the only person to respond, and was told that he was to be the "chief" of our tribe (people on the white bus). The chief, we were told, has the duty to accept the peace offering of the chief of the village. To do that, he has to accept the peace offering from the chief, and the touch nose to nose twice and shake hands.

Arriving at the village, that's exactly what happened.  The greeting ceremony featured Maori men and women, and the tribe chief. I caught it on video, and loved it all. We were then ushered through

Father (chief)

their beautiful forest to a group of huts in a circle, where we were offered small bites of traditional Maori foods, and were shown and participated in various Maori traditions and games, one by one. I joined in one, and Ray another. The Maori guides explained all as we traveled around the circle to each hut. It was fun, and instructive. All the people that guided and taught us tonight were relatives, brothers, cousins, father, sisters.

We were then shown how some of our meal tonight had been cooked: in a pit covered with banana leaves. Then, we were led to a community hall, where the Maori performed traditional songs and stories for us. That was really great. 

Then came dinner. We were assigned places at a table with a young couple from Indiana,  and another from Idaho with whom we enjoyed travel conversation during dinner. Dinner was served family style and the menu was varied and delicious. 

After dinner, we all said "Kia ora" (sounds like key ora) , a common New Zealand greeting meaning "hello," "hi," "good morning," or "cheers". It literally translates to "be healthy" or "have life," and is used to welcome people, express gratitude, or say goodbye and is widely used, and a culturally significant phrase in New Zealand. We came away with a better appreciation of the Maori culture.

We took the bus back to our starting point, and cautiously drove in pitch black darkness, to our hotel.

Photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/Miz3UxhCMPC2mhfZ8

FINALLY clear skies to luxury, February 24, 2026

With the breakfast items we purchased at the Lake Tekapo grocery store yesterday, we had a leisurely breakfast looking out over the lake and mountains. The weather gods mocked us by providing a crystal clear sky over Lake Tekapo. That would have been welcome 10 hours earlier. We headed out and as we approached the mountains,  it became overcast, and the temperature dropped. We passed farms and sheep and cows and deer farms, across green, rolling hills that were

Hedgerow

partitioned with hedgerows. Some of those hedgerows were hundreds of yards long, and thick. Some were neatly shorn, others just a natural thick green wall. It was fascinating to see the variety. They are used to separate fields for crops and livestock, cut the wind, and reduce soil erosion. We did note that some trees were changing color! Fall is coming!

We stopped at a town called Geraldine, larger than most in this area, about 86 miles south of Christchurch. We browsed a few shops, and  stopped at the Hewlings Totara tree, planted in the 1860s to commemorate the birth of the first non-native New Zealander born there. 

Our hotel for the night is in a remote area that is a posh golf resort. We are in a 2 bedroom, 2 bath unit with a lovely view of the golf course and the mountains in the distance. Because we decided to do this trip so late (the summer season here was already under way), lots of choices were completely booked.  As a matter of fact, we see a prepondrance of no vacancy signs. So, we got what our tour operator could wrangle for us. It's worked out well, anyway, as we've had superlative accommodations. 

We had a fantastic dinner in the dining room while our we washed our laundry in the washer and dryer in the unit. When we leave NZ on Saturday,  we'll have mostly clean clothes in our bags.

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rj47uiMijXUyv3nZA

Disappointment at Lake Tekapo, February 23, 2026

This was mostly a driving day. We have to get back to Christchurch tomorrow to catch a plane back to the north island. This time, we are driving on the east side of the mountains we saw on the west side, especially Mount Cook, which we saw at Lake Matheson. The land here is very different from what we saw on the west, being more wide open, and covered with farms (produce and deer), sheep, and cows. We stopped at a grocery store in Cromwell, (the center of a fruit growing area) to pick up some snacks. Cromwell celebrated their fame with a giant fruit sculpture at the roadside. At the store, we checked out some strange snacks, and unusual foods like this:

How about a nice pig's head for dinner? At $4.08 a pound, that's only $14.53 for this beaut!

Tonight's stop will be at Lake Tekapo, a world-class stargazing spot within an International Dark Sky Reserve. At $

We have reservations for a small group stargazing experience.  This is how it was described: 

"Enjoy a 2-hour stargazing experience with an experienced guide. We keep the tour to a maximum of 10 adults for best experience. Learn about the night sky, see constellations, and use a 16" telescope to see planets and stars. Snack on a platter of nibbles and sip on a hot drink while you stargaze. Get picked up from your accommodation in Lake Tekapo and be driven to a private stargazing site out in the farm with zero light pollution. Sit back in a comfortable moon chair and wrap yourself in a warm blanket. Use a modern 16” telescope to see the night sky for deep sky objects."

We were stoked, except that the skies all day had been cloudy. But we were told to come check in anyway a few minutes before we were scheduled to be transported to the dark sky spot. We did, and were then told that it had been canceled. Bummer.

Our consolation was that our accommodations were great. We had a small kitchen, and 2 bedrooms,  one of which faced the mountains and lake with a huge picture window. We were high above the lake. Very nice. 

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YWwa5zuBwwQnWFzDA

Milford Sound, February 22, 2026

I had the feeling that this was going to be a great day when I looked out our hotel window and saw clearing skies. That, along with a promise of sun and 60s weather from the weather gurus, validated my premonition. 

We had to leave early  (7 am+/-) because our Milford Sound cruise was about a 2 hour drive away. And free parking (otherwise $10/hour) was a 20 minute walk to check in.  So, after breakfast that had been provided in our room, we set out.

The drive over Milford Road is nothing short of spectacular. It starts out over open fields, and climbs to snow capped mountains laced with waterfalls. Since we'd have to drive the same route coming back, we didn't stop to drink in the beauty. With little traffic, we arrived at Milford Sound early.  The walk from the parking lot was easy and pleasant as it wove through the rainforest.  A large patch of what looked like hawkweed, and orange crocosmia greeted us at the start of our walk. The only issue we had was  the nasty swarming sand flies. They compare well with NH black flies: they swarm around exposed skin,  they bite, and the bites itch like crazy. 

But, oh my, the 2 hour cruise on the Sound was well worth the early wake up and even the sand flies. The sound is actually a fjord, carved by glaciers, not rivers into steep U shaped cliffs. Those cliffs as the rise up from the water are dramatic with multicolor rock faces and waterfalls everywhere. We were told by one of the crew that we had really hit a

jackpot. It rained yesterday and that filled the previously dry waterfalls. That, paired with a perfectly sunny and mild day was particularly uncommon. Plus, we were blessed with the fact that our cruise was not heavily attended. We could easily move about the boat, going inside and outside in the front and rear. 

The ride back to Te Anau was an opportunity to stop all along the winding road we had previously traveled to check out the mountain and valley scenery. The road nearer to the sound is winding and narrow, and there were places where it was so narrow, it looked like it was actually one lane, but it was really 2. We're driving an Outlander, a full size SUV, and it looked like there was scarce room for a car to approach from the opposite direction. At one of the stops, we were lucky to spot a Kea bird, about the size of a smallish chicken. It's a large parrot, about 18 inches long, and an endangered native NZ bird. There are less than 4000 left in the wild. This one was banded, and I had read that NZ is monitoring the kea population closely. Very cool to get to see this.

Back in Te Anau, we strolled into town to have dinner. Unlike Saturday,  when you really needed a reservation, it seemed like most of the restaurants were quiet and just waiting for customers to come in.

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/498pWG3YtWnLfiiA7

Queenstown to Glow Worms! February 21, 2026

Getting out of Queenstown was not as easy as we might have anticipated.  There is a great deal of construction, and some roads were closed. The route we had to take took us up those 20% grades hills, and down narrow streets where people were parked on both sides of the street. There were even boats parked on the street. I don't think a lot of people have garages here, or driveways. The drive to Te Anau was beautiful, and we stopped at a few turn outs and town's on our way.

On the road to Te Anau

Anyway, we did make our way out of town, headed for Te Anau, a small town on Lake Te Anau, an area that is home to glow worm caves. Glow-worms are not actually worms, but  larvae of a fungus gnat. They inhabit damp areas like caves, stream banks, and forests, using a blue-green light produced by a chemical reaction in their tail to attract prey into sticky silk threads. So you can see these in the dark-- kind of like fireflies.

We arrived in Te Anau to threatening skies. But rain did hold off. We boarded a boat that took us across Lake Te Anau to the site of the caves. We then walked a path that took us through the rainforest to the caves. Since they don't allow photography in the dark caves,

I only managed a few pictures. In the cave, we followed a path that required up to stoop low (maybe 5 feet high) twice, and that led to a boat landing , and the 13 of us on this tour boarded. It was a VERY small boat. Ray was the last to board, and his knees barely fit to allow him to sit. Once the boat entered the dark cave, sure enough you could see clusters of blue lights on the ceiling, and what looked like veils ( the worm sticky traps) on the ceiling as well. It was interesting, and strange. I would have liked to tour the cave itself with a bit more light, because there was a rushing stream through it and the walls (as much as we could see of them) had fascinating grooves and pockets. 

After the glow worms, we went to dinner in town, walking in the rain that finally arrived. Te Anau has a population of about 2,900 people that grows to over 10,000 in summer (December to March). There are 25 restaurants in town, so there was a lot to choose from, although many require reservations if you want to eat before 8 o'clock. We have found the food in NZ to be very good, with fresh ingredients. But side dishes are mostly French fries. 

Our accommodations are wonderful, we have a full kitchen and living area, and our room looks out on the lake.

Photos here: 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/s4ShZQb5VmQFzY6h7

Lake Wakatipu, views, Walter Peak dinner and sheep, February 20, 2026

We got up late and were 2 of the last people in for breakfast this morning. Later, we headed out to check out Queenstown, a city built on hills in the southwest of New Zealand's south island. It sits on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, a beautiful glacial lake surrounded by mountains. It's a relatively new city, as the first non-Maori  to arrive here came in 1853. Shortly after that, gold was discovered in the Arrow River, and the settlement grew from there. 

Having been built on the mountain sides, the city streets are steep! 16-25% grades are common. I wouldn't want to have to drive a stick shift around here...

We took a walk in the picturesque Queenstown Botanical Gardens, dedicated to WWI veterans. It is an absolute gem, situate on the lake shore, and boasting some gorgeous tree specimens. There were sequoia brought from the US, and beautiful flower gardens all perched on Queenstown's steep hills. 

This evening, we boarded the TSS Earnslaw , a commercial coal powered steam boat, to cross Lake Wakatipu and arrive at the Walter Peak Farm for a sumptuous dinner and sheep demonstration. The ride took us through the mountains and some wonderful

scenery. The farm itself is gorgeous, as it sits in a small bay on the shores of Lake Wakatipu. The dinner was great, the sheep show, not so much. When we were in Ireland, we had attended a demo at working sheep farm, where the dogs, herded the sheep at whistled commands over a many acre area in a natural setting in the Irish hills. It was a marvel to see, followed by a sheep shearing demo where a small group gathered around, feet from the shearer. Tonight's shearing demo was under a lighted tent in the dark, with an audience of about 200. The herding was shown in a dimly lit field in the back of the tent. It was hard to see what the dogs were doing, and it felt really "commercial". 

Photos here: 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4VJ82X9oSMGgbS4e8

Wild ride on the Dart, February 19, 2026

We were up early to make the hour drive to Dart River Adventures in Glenorchy for our 2 hour jet boat adventure up the Dart River that flows into Lake Wakatipu. The day was overcast, but expected to clear through the morning. 

There were 13 of us plus the driver on our boat. These jet boats can operate in water as shallow as 6 inches, and that was a feature needed for this ride. The Dart is a glacier- fed  braided river, "characterized by multiple, shifting channels separated by small,

On the bus to the river dock

temporary islands (braid bars) across a wide gravel bed." We set off to the north through the Dart valley between mountains in shallow water at speeds of 40-60 mph. The air temperature when we left was low 50s, and we were glad we had dressed in layers, so were both pretty warm. Our driver, at times, would signal to us that he was going to perform a 360 degree water "wheelie", spraying water everywhere. That was cool! About halfway up the river, it started to rain. Lightly at first, then harder for a bit. Those raindrops felt like a face acupuncture treatment: little needles stabbed into your face! Fortunately,  the operation company had given us balaclavas to put over our heads to expose only your mouth and eyes. That helped a lot. They recommend everyone wear sunglasses or glasses. The rain stopped after a bit, and cleared as we came south again.

This was fun, and the scenery stunning. We saw rainbows at 2 locations, and passed the places where filming of Lord of the Rings took place. We passed a cabin on the river that was used in the filming for a Brad Pitt movie that has yet to be released. It served as a stand in for an Alaskan location.

Photos were hard to take in a boat going 50 mph! But sometimes our driver would stop to explain some of what we were seeing,  and give us the opportunity to snap pictures then.

By the time we returned to the dock, it was sunny and beautiful with temps in the upper 60s. We had lunch at a local spot in Glenorchy. Even in these more remote spots, we've found the food to be fresh and tasty. I had a nice chicken salad with spring greens and smoked chicken ( not gross deli chicken).

From Glenorchy,  we drove north for a bit to check out the country, but turned around when we found ourselves on a really rough dirt road. Following the road south to Queenstown,  we stopped at a few overlooks. I'm enjoying all the different vegetation here, so many different plants, flowers, and bushes. The road back is extremely narrow, and Ray is cautious going around hairpin turns. Thank God, because on one of them, we met what looked like an empty logging truck coming around that turn in our narrow (very narrow) lane. Needless to say, we both uttered a choice expletive to see it coming at us. But there was just enough room,  and we're still here.

We decided we'd like to know what we're eating, and opted for dinner at a great little local restaurant (mentioned in reviews as a place mostly frequented by locals). A bonus was that we could walk there instead of braving the insane Queenstown traffic. 

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SPVqKFgeVTimXJVY6

Bradrona and Degustation, February 18, 2026

 

Arrowtown 

Yesterday we drove from Wanaka to Queenstown,  stopping at several places along  the way. It was a bright sunny, slightly cool day, for a welcome change.  That drive isn't very long, but we took a leisurely pace. 

First up was the gem, Bradrona. The Cardrona Bra Fence began as a mystery between Christmas 1998 and New Year 1999, when four bras mysteriously appeared on a roadside wire fence. Though the original motive remains unknown, the local landowners decided to leave them up. As word spread, the collection grew to 60 by February—only to be stripped away by an anonymous "cleanser."

Ironically, this attempt to clear the fence only fueled its fame. Following widespread media coverage in New Zealand, the bras returned in droves. By October 2000, the count hit 200; after another mass removal, the story went global, capturing interest as far away as Europe. What started as a local quirk soon became a major tourist landmark, with people visiting in person or mailing garments from across the world. By early 2006, the fence boasted nearly 800 bras. 

In November 2014, Cardrona 2 tour guides decided to take voluntary guardianship of the fence after it had been stripped by anonymous people on a number of occasions. They shifted the fence to their private driveway about 100 yards away from its original spot. A pink sign and a collection box were put up in March 2015 to help raise funds for the New Zealand Breast Cancer Foundation. The area is now known as Bradrona, and there are thousands of bras on the fence now. 

A short distance away is the small town of Cardrona, established in the 1860s in the midst of the gold rush of the time. A large flood in 1878 wiped out most mine claims, and most people left the area. There are a few original building left in town. We stopped to tour the schoolhouse,  hotel, and church buildings.

As we traveled the road, the scenery changed dramatically.  Views were more open, gone were the lush forests. Further along, we came to Arrowtown, another gold mining town. There are many well preserved buildings here that were used by the European and Chinese immigrants who settled during the town's gold mining era. Arrowtown is a lovely town with tree lined streets that is chock full of boutiques, restaurants,  gift shops and boutiques.  It's another major tourist spot. We stopped here for ice cream and to stroll through the town. We do find it odd that there are very few public trash cans, but very little litter--anywhere. 

By the end of the afternoon, we arrived at our hotel located on a hill overlooking Lake Wakatipu with great views of the mountains across the lake. We enjoyed the degustation menu (as we diecovered, a curated, multi-course tasting menu designed to showcase a chef’s skills, local ingredients, and varied culinary techniques) at the restaurant here, 

The Degustation room

and were mostly bewildered by whatever it was they served. Each course looked beautiful and had lots of textures and flavors, but we couldn't understand most of the waiter's elaborate descriptions of what we were going to be eating. He spoke fast and with a French accent, and I wasnt going to ask him to slow down, or speak more clearly. I just figured that no matter, we'd eat the dish. Every so often, we could pick out a word: "foam" or "eel"...We've laughed a lot about that whole experience, and it will always be a funny memory for us. 

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ahpsGVjrpyrTK4Kk8

Lazy day in Wanaka, February 17, 2026

Lake Wanaka

Since we've been on the go, we opted to take today as a lazy day. We slept late, had a late breakfast delivered to our door,

Breakfast 

worked out (there's a gym here) and weren't out the door til afternoon. We mosied into Wanaka and cruised the shops that line the streets. Wanaka seems to be every bit a tourist town, with a huge Asian presence. Ardmore and Helwick Streets are lined with restaurant after restaurant interspersed with gift shops. There is a nice walking path along the beautiful Lake Wanaka that is populated by folks welding selfie sticks. Parking lots have very narrow lanes to optimize usage, and it's hard to move around. 

We stopped for ice cream and enjoyed the brightening day. The sun was trying hard to come out. After a while in town, we decided to retreat to our little haven at Tin Tub. We had a glass of wine and sat on the patio and listened to the birds twittering around us. We're far enough from town that there is no road noise.

One thing we really like about NZ is the way most restaurants operate. You place your order when you go in and pay then. A server delivers your food, and you can leave when you're done. No tipping. Restaurant prices are pretty reasonable here. Tonight we each had a steak, fries, and salad for $40 US. 

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5atDnqXYarHbm18Y9

Down from the rainforest to Wanaka lakes area, February 16, 2026

After another wonderful lodge breakfast, we set off down the coast through Haast Pass to the lakes region and Wanaka. 

We visited a couple of waterfalls accessed by short hikes, then Haast Pass and the Blue Pools, a hike through native forest and over a swing bridge to turquoise pools branching off a river.

We also stopped at Lake Hawea overlook with views of mountains and lakes. At that overlook, we saw the only bit of roadside trash we have seen in NZ in the last week. It was startling to see, as the country, from cities to scenic areas is so incredibly clean. As we left the rainforest, the landscape opened up to views of lakes edged with mountains, not the typical walls of greenery at the edges of the road.

We arrived in Wanaka at our accommodations by late afternoon.  When we got here, we couldn't figure out how to get in! When we finally found the front door, it was locked, with a sign posted asking for us to call or text a number. Unfortunately,  our esims allow us to use data, not calling. The text number instructed us to use WhatsApp,  but we both use Google messages. Fortunately, a cleaning employee saw us, and offered to call for us. The manager/owner came, and

brought us to our room. This place sits high on a ridge overlooking Wanaka and there are 3 chalets and 2 lodges, for 5 unique "rooms". We have a large patio with outdoor seating, and a separate private "tub area" outside. The chalet itself is huge, and really comfortable. Our tour operator has chosen luxury accommodations in each place, a significant change for the people who toured Europe in a pup tent.

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9U1euWWZHdpgT4BF7

Wilderness Lodge Adventures, February 15, 2026

Silver Beech

We are staying at Wilderness Lodge on Lake Moeraki, a destination resort. They provide meals and nature-based activities in a setting that is really far from any established town. The employees live there. The location is remote as it is situated in the heart of the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage area. There are no TVs in the rooms, but they offer various outdoor adventures,  or just the opportunity to sit and relax in this serene place. 

Today after a late breakfast, we did laundry (free of charge), and just generally relaxed. The grounds of the resort are impeccably maintained. It was a gorgeous sunny day. In the afternoon, we met up with our guide, Isla, who took us on a personal tour of some local spots. The walk is offered (for a charge) to all guests, along with another activity, (kayaking on the lake). Most others chose that. We were the only ones who chose these walks.

Isla drove us to a few overlooks, and we hiked one area of rainforest, stopped at a beach, and then went to a beach known only to locals. To get to that one, we had to wade across a creek, and trek over a muddy trail. They supplied wet shoes, water, bug spray, and sunscreen.  Isla showed us what to look for in hunting potential gemstones. We found white and light green jade, quartz, and several others. We spent 4 hours learning from Isla about the rain forest and history of that area of the country, and enjoying the great views of the area beaches.  We both completely enjoyed this outing.

When we got back to our room, we had just enough time for a bathroom break before we set out for the evening walk to the lake to meet certain residents: the eels. With Isla and another guide, we trekked through another area of the forest where we found a 600 year old silver beech tree that hosted 96 other species on it! We were also introduced to the eels that live in Lake Moeraki. They are not a danger to humans, but I can't say I'd want to bump into one in the water!

Dinner was delightful and relaxing after a busy day. The cicadas lulled us to sleep.

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/aDnbfLz8D1eQHgxG6

Down the west coast, February 14, 2026

At Lake Matheson 

Our first stop of the day as we left Franz Josef to head south, was at the Franz Josef glacier. There is a short walk that takes you to a viewpoint of the glacier. Since you're so far away from it, it's unimpressive. 

Further south, we stopped at Lake Matheson, known for being like a mirror for Mt. Cook and Mt. Tasman on a completely calm day. Unfortunately,  there was a  slight breeze today, that hindered that effect. We chose the walk around the lake, through native old growth forest. Everything in the forest seemed to be moss-covered, the trees, rocks, ground- everything.  And the moss was several inches thick. We were amazed at how many species of moss we saw: some looked like miniature trees, some were fuzzy, some like little ferns. Large ferns sprouted from the walls on the sides of the trail in places. The plant life at our feet was as interesting and beautiful as the mountain scenic views. Amazingly there were no annoying bugs! Beautiful  walk.

Heading further south, it clouded up, and we stopped at Bruce Bay, a stretch of beach littered with rocks and driftwood (and sand flies). 

From there, we headed to our final stop for the day at Wilderness Lodge, established by dedicated conservationists. It is located in Te Wahipounamu, in the southwest corner of the South Island of New Zealand. This area encompasses 4 national parks, and is the least developed area in NZ. The vegetation here is in essentially pristine condition as a bridge to this area wasn't built until some time in the 1960s. Our lodge is surrounded, as it's name implies, by the wilderness.  Since there are no other businesses in the area, all meals and recreation are provided here. The meals are all created from fresh, local ingredients,  and they offer naturalist guided nature walks and presentations,  and kayaking. It's a wonderfully peaceful retreat, with expansive lawns and gardens, with nature on its doorstep.

We went on a short guided walk through the bush to the lake, then joined the others staying here for happy hour and then a lovely dinner. 

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/CamkWM6rrKBvDtvP8

To Franz Josef via TranzAlpine train and Route 6, February 13, 2026

 Our tour company had arranged for us to be picked up by cab early this morning to take us to the 8:15 departure of the TranzAlpine train. That 5 hour journey would take us from Christchurch in the east to Greymouth in the west, where we would collect our rental car for the 2 1/2 hour drive down the scenic route 6 to our stop for the day at a beautiful little town, Franz Josef.

While the day and journey started out cloudy, by halfway through the train trip, it started to rain-- hard. That fact colored our experience. Rain and fog obscured a good part of the trip. If there were spectacular views, we didn't, for the most part,  see them. We sat opposite a couple from Toronto (small world??). The woman wore a sweatshirt that proclaimed "Canada is not for sale!"

Overall, we found that the experience did not live up to the hype. From what we could tell, even with the rain, the views were not what I'd call superlative. Service on the train (we had breakfast with our tickets) was lame. The food was packaged food that they reheated. They'd give you your "cooked" meal, then you'd have to wait 3 or 4 minutes to get your beverage. We wished we had just driven the route.

In Greymouth, we picked up our ride, a huge Mitsubishi Outlander, and set off in the rain down route 6, a lush green landscape pretty much all the way. Ferns clung to the rock faces (we guessed there was rock under all the greenery because the surfaces were vertical) at the sides of the road. You really couldn't see rocks or soil anywhere,  just trees, bushes, and flowers (crocosmia, like in Ireland!). It was really a delight to see, even in the rain.

About an hour north of Franz Josef, the road became a series of twists and turns, snaking through the mountain area. It was pretty cool. 

We arrived at our stop for the night by late afternoon. It is a beautiful, quiet, clean mini-apartment with a kitchen, sofa, and extra bed. I suspect that since we booked this trip so late in the season (summer here had already begun) we got the last room here. Almost every accommodation is sold out. We don't mind. So far, every hotel has been excellent. Franz Josef is a beautiful, scenic town.

We notice that there is a heavy oriental population here. We went to a bustling oriental restaurant for dinner that featured Thai, Filipino,  and Chinese dishes. As all the places we've dined at so far, ingredients are all super fresh and tasty.

Photos link

To Christchurch, February 12, 2026

Our trip continues today with a flight to the south island.  We returned our car at the airport, and took a 1 hour 25 minute flight to Christchurch. At the baggage area, we were greeted by our transfer company driver who would bring us to our hotel. From there, we set out to check out Christchurch, the 3rd largest city in NZ. The inner city itself is really very small, and very walkable. In both 2010 and 2011, Christchurch was devastated by major earthquakes, 7.1 and 6.3. The more destructive quake was the 2011 although it was not as strong as the first because it occurred directly under the city. The 2011 quake was considered an aftershock of the 1st the centered 30 miles away. In the year after the 2010 shock, the were at least ten aftershocks, with most in the 5.0-5.8 range. The Christchurch Anglican Cathedral was one of many buildings destroyed by the 2011 quake. There are stunning London Plane trees oon the church's sides, which were planted between the 1880s and 1920s. These trees were given special protection in 2020 due to their historical significance and to ensure their safety during the cathedral’s restoration. 

The city is still in the process of rebuilding the cathedral,with many more years of reconstruction to go. Perhaps a testament to the rebuilding done after the earthquakes,  there are many modern buildings in Christchurch. 

We visited what is known as "The Cardboard Cathedral", the temporary new home for the cathedral damaged in the quake.  The church gets its nickname from the use of over 90 large cardboard tubes for its walls and roof. We happened to visit at the time the choir was practicing. Very moving. 

There is a beautiful park in the city center that has expansive rolling lawns and mature trees. There is a botanical garden and ponds, as well as many paved lanes that weave through it. 

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SkWPb7ZdQURnNp5w9

Auckland walk and Return, February 11, 2026

Matt and Barbara are creating a new restaurant in Auckland called Return! Unbelievably,  they're shooting for a mid to late March opening. Before we left the area, we wanted to be sure to stop by to see it before it becomes the gem I'm sure it will be, and Barbara had mentioned that they'd be there this morning will some of their team. It's going to be a stylish, fine dining place, and location seems to be perfect, in the midst of a trendy, fashionable hub that is known for its boutique shops, world class restaurants and cafes, bars and nightlife. 

To get to their restaurant,  we walked from our hotel. Barbara did mention that there was a hill to contend with.  And she was right. Part of our walk was up a pretty steep 1/2 mile long hill. But it was worth it. That was the beginning of our Aukland trek that took us up Franklin Rd, lined with beautiful old English plane trees (which look a lot like sycamores), down Ponsonby, lined with shops and restaurants,  to Karangahape Rd, known as K Road, known for its historic  buildings,  unique boutiques, shops and restaurants. 

St. Patrick's 

We stopped to admire the Anglican cathedral St. Matthew in the city, built between 1902 and 1905. It's renowned for its beautiful stained glass windows. Unique are stained glass pieces thar commemorate the 257 passengers and crew who died in a 1979 crash of a NZ Air crash in Antarctica. 

St. Patrick's catholic cathedral is a short distance from St. Matthew's. The original church was wood that was replaced in 1907. It seems somewhat out of place surrounded by tall modern buildings.

ASB HQ

We appreciated the creative modern buildings around Auckland, from the Auckland Savings Bank building in the Wynyard area (where we were staying) to the NZ International Convention Center.

Dinner was at a little Italian place near the hotel.

Auckland is an interesting city, and very different from other cities we've visited in the US and abroad. It's super clean: there's no litter blowing along the street or lying in the gutters. We walked all over the city and saw only 2 homeless people in our travels. Tipping is only done for exceptional service. Normally, there's no need to leave a tip. Stores and restaurants close really early here, most by 9 pm. There were many people walking on the waterfront, and stores and restaurants were still closing up. The arrows indicating right and left turn only lanes are placed only just at the intersection.  So if you're rolling up to an intersection and there are cars ahead of you, you have no idea it's a turn only lane til you get to the intersection.  Very annoying. As in Ireland,  Ray is icing driving on the left side of the road. The only hiccup is that the turn signal for the car is on the right side, and the windows wash is on the left. Every time we need to make a turn, the wipers turn on...

On to Christchurch. 

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vyvFFC4m2ZheBSd39

Great day with Barbara and the Lamberts, February 10, 2026

The hotel we are staying at doesn't have a restaurant but offers breakfast via a partnership with several restaurants in the Auckland harbor area. We took advantage of this and chose a small Cafe near the hotel. We presented our hotel tickets at the Cafe, and got wonderful fresh breakfasts and coffee-- way better than most hotels' breakfast selections. 

We had gotten esims for our phones to get decent cell signals and internet access, so we were able to use Android Auto to find our way to Barbara and Matt's lovely home in Kumeu, about a 25 minute drive from our hotel.  After chatting a while, Barbara took us out to a couple of scenic spots nearby. One was Bethells Beach (Te Henga), about 23 miles west of Auckland,  a beautiful black sand beach. Another was Muriwai, another black sand beach, and a nesting site for a large colony of gannets. It's a popular spot for surfers. I was surprised at how few people were at either spot. It's summer here! 

After checking out these spots, we headed back to Barbara and Matt's for a fantastic dinner  prepared by chef Matt and were joined by Matt's mom and grandmother. We really enjoyed this opportunity to spend time with family.

The scenery all around is green, green, green, and rolling hills, and we're loving the weather.  It is warm, about 80+ degrees, with a bit of humidity, but not so much it's uncomfortable. 

Impressions: prices here are mostly reasonable.  At restaurants,  no tipping is required or expected. Servers are paid a normal wage. The city is VERY clean, with little to no litter.  Where we are staying is a revitalized part of Auckland, with many new buildings. The architecture is striking. They roll the streets up early here! We returned from Barbara and Matt's a little after 9 pm, and stores and restaurants were closing or already closed. We managed to get the last order of the day at a Gelato shop and sat outside and enjoyed the evening.

Pictures here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/y3wGnavAXJKsb45J6

Exploring a new place, February 7-9, 2026

 Off to NZ. We took an evening flight from Phoenix to LA, and cooled our heels for 5 hours at LAX waiting for our late evening flight to New Zealand. We had a great surprise when we approached the Delta Sky Club to relax for that time, and were told that since we were flying Delta One, we should go down to the Delta One Lounge. Oh my... This was a level of luxury we had not expected. This was a very quiet and comfy lounge where we were offered free alcoholic drinks, full sit -down meals, desserts, beverages at no extra charge. The personal service was awesome. 

Of course the Delta One tickets were a bit more pricey than regular. But the whole Delta One experience was fabulous. 

In spite of the fact that our seats to Auckland allowed us to lie down, while WAY better than being in a too- narrow seat with no leg or shoulder room for 13-14 hours, weren't panacea. I think both Ray and I got 2-3 hours of sleep. We left LA at 10:30 pm on the 7th and arrived in Auckland on the 9th at 7:45 am local time. Customs and car pick up went fine, and then we set off for our hotel, a great place near the harbor.

After settling in to our room and watching the Super Bowl 😭 (it was on TV here) , we went  to check out the area of Auckland by the harbor. I was impressed by how clean and also quiet the city is. The traffic coming in from the airport wasn't bad, and it was notably quiet in the area we were in, by the harbor. The weather is delightful, with a moderate (by my standards anyway) and comfortable humidity. We're looking forward to seeing Barbara and the family tomorrow.