Thoughts Become Things

Monday, October 20, 2008

October 20, 2008 Still worth the price

Ray sent me this article from the online NY Times money section on Friday the 17th. Because it may not be available when you get to read it, I am copying it here. It speaks directly to Ray's and my own philosophy of saving and spending. What is spoken of here is exactly the reason why we drove over 6,000 miles this last summer and then paid over $4.00/gallon for gas on the trip. A number of people asked me then whether we might be better served waiting to travel til gas prices came down (with no guarantee that they EVER would). Even with the recent financial whipping we've all taken, I think this is a great response.

By Ron J. Stefanski

In the last month or so, it has become much harder to take out our wallets without feeling guilty.

No single authority figure has told us not to spend. But people are scared, and that fear is showing up in lower sales on all sorts of big-ticket items, from autos to electronics.

Homeowners had already been feeling poorer, and the devastating investment losses have made thrift a necessity for many people. Saving every extra dollar now seems the most sensible course of action, given predictions of rising unemployment and daily mentions of the Great Depression.

But it’s easy to forget a couple of important things. First of all, the vast majority of people in the United States are not going to lose their jobs. Second, most of us work not merely for subsistence but so we can spend money on things and experiences that bring us some form of contentment.

So let this serve as a reminder that there may be plenty of good reasons left to spend what you earn.

This is not a call to consumer patriotism, a suggestion that we all go shopping for the good of the economy. Instead, I’m merely suggesting that if you’re feeling undeserving of anything special at this particular moment, or think you should help perform some sort of collective penance for our national overspending, you may want to cut yourself some slack.

I was reminded of this about a month ago, when I got a note from a man in Ann Arbor, Mich., named Ron Stefanski. At the time, I was writing about reducing financial risk, and he and his family had recently splurged on a 38-foot sailboat and lowered the 20-year-old vessel into the waters of Lake Charlevoix. The question his message raised was whether spending money on a boat was actually wise, and if so, why?

Money was part of what kept the family from buying a boat for years, even though Ron had long wanted one. Until four years ago, Ron’s wife, Kay, had been home raising their two boys, Dan, now 15 and Will, 17. Ron, who is 48 years old, is a vice president at Gale, a reference publisher.

“We don’t have trust funds for our kids or oodles of discretionary income,” Ron said. “So I was the one who kept saying, ‘Do we really need to be spending money like this when we need to get money in the bank for college?’ ”

But trying to do the math on buying a boat will often end badly, as it will with many large discretionary purchases. Boats depreciate, vacations are over in a week or two, and you probably won’t recoup the entire cost of your remodeled patio.

Instead, the Stefanskis came to realize, the boat was an investment in something much more valuable than money. Ron’s mother died when he was 16, and his grandmother helped raise him. Three months before his first son was born, his grandmother was murdered in her Detroit home by her newspaper delivery boy.

“When you look at life from that perspective, it’s about creating memories,” he said. “Because the good moments can be fleeting and they can be peppered with other experiences that you don’t want to be as memorable.”

A boat is also an investment in relationships, something that isn’t readily apparent until you’re on one a lot. Kay, who is 46 and works in textbook sales, helped talked Ron into buying the boat.

“We’re getting ready to be empty-nesters, learning how to navigate the space of being alone together, and that’s something that’s been a little bit sobering,” Ron said. “What she helped me to see is that having the boat is an opportunity to connect, to spend time together when the boys are off doing their own thing.”

In fact, Dan and Will have been on the boat a fair bit, too.

“As a teenager, I look forward to doing things that teenagers do, going to parties and hanging out with my friends,” Dan said. “But the boat was something I really learned to love.”

That has been an added bonus, given that the boys will soon be in college or away for the summers.

“This was a window of opportunity,” Ron said. “And the fact that we have to put the effort into driving up to the lake, it marks the time as untouchable.”

The Stefanskis paid $55,000 for their boat and financed the purchase with a $30,000 home equity line of credit. They earn more than $250,000 each year, though that is a relatively recent development in their lives.

If you make much less and have much less, you may be wondering what all this has to do with you. But not every investment of this sort needs to have a four- or five-figure price tag to be significant.

Perhaps it’s buying a better bicycle and taking daylong rides with others (or commuting to work to get in shape and save money on gas). Or it’s the fanciest paella pan or pizza stone you can find, which keeps you out of expensive restaurants and at home with friends and family who will appreciate your new skills, the free meal and the conversation.

A sports car probably doesn’t qualify here. Nor does a tummy tuck. Instead, it’s about investing money tactically in our relationships with one another, building bonds that last beyond ones to any particular employer or a house that we may no longer be able to afford.

For people who find themselves frightened by the possibility of a long, deep recession, well, the Stefanskis know how you feel. Since they bought the boat, the balance in their retirement accounts has fallen by about a quarter. The investments in the college savings accounts for the two teenage boys have hit the skids, and the troubled regional economy means their house in Ann Arbor is worth a lot less as well.

In the last downturn, Ron lost his job two weeks before the Sept. 11 attacks, and it wasn’t a great time to be looking for work.

What the family learned then, however, leaves them with no regrets now that they are boat owners, even though their jobs are potentially vulnerable once again.

“If you value family and friendships and experiences, the things that you might lose don’t mean quite as much,” Kay said. “It puts it all in perspective.”

Ron added, “Your job as a parent, a friend or life partner is to create memories with each other. That’s what we’re here for. And I think in that respect, the decision to purchase the boat was a good decision.”

Sunday, October 12, 2008

October 12, 2008 Just one more outrage


It's been such a gorgeous weekend--the foliage is at peak here in southern NH and the days have been warm, dry, and clear with deep blue skies to set off the reds, golds, yellows and oranges of the trees. Yesterday, Ray and I drove over to the St. Gaudens National Historic Site in Cornish, NH. Augustus St. Gaudens was the sculptor who created the Shaw Memorial on Boston Common, the Sherman Monument at the entrance to New York City's Central Park, and the Farragut monument at Madison Square Park in New York City, among many notable sculptures. We greatly enjoyed the leisurely drive over the back roads of southern and central NH. On the way back, we stopped at another federally managed site, the John Hay National Wildlife Refuge in Newbury, NH. We took a short hike, and vowed to return when the days get longer in the spring.

All this is prelude to my reading of an article online this morning that sent me over the edge. Apparently Mexican marijuana growing cartels have long used our national parks as havens to grow marijuana. To make sure that they maximize their harvest, they have been poisoning some of our greatest land treasures.

According to the article: "Seven hundred grow sites were discovered on U.S. Forest Service land in California alone in 2007 and 2008 — and authorities say the 1,800-square-mile Sequoia National Forest is the hardest hit. Weed and bug sprays, some long banned in the U.S., have been smuggled to the marijuana farms. Plant growth hormones have been dumped into streams, and the water has then been diverted for miles in PVC pipes. Rat poison has been sprinkled over the landscape to keep animals away from tender plants. And many sites are strewn with the carcasses of deer and bears poached by workers during the five-month growing season that is now ending."

Maybe now is the time, as Ray suggests, to bring our soldiers home from Iraq, and put them to work rooting out these invaders who are threatening our natural inheritance. Please join me in contacting your reps and senators, and urge them to address this issue in earnest, before it is too late.





Monday, September 29, 2008

September 29, 2008 Addendum

I read an article today that pretty much sums up my feelings about travel. It told about a new Ken Burns project. For those that are unfamiliar with his work, Ken Burns is a film maker who has produced many landmark PBS documentaries on such topics as the Civil War, jazz, baseball, Frank Lloyd Wright, Mark Twain, Congress, WW II and the Brooklyn Bridge. This new project is called "The National Parks: America's Best Idea". Burns says that almost all of his work looks at the way American geography connects with the American character. I'm looking forward to the series. In speaking with the article's author, he describes his own first experience with the National Parks at Shenandoah National Park in VA.

"My family life was horrifically tragic," he begins. "There was never a moment when I wasn't aware that my mother was tremendously sick with cancer. I was told when I was 6 or 7 that she was going to die within six months. She died a few months short of my 12th birthday. I didn't have a childhood."

But one weekend when Burns was 6 or 7 and the family was living in Delaware, his father met him after school and drove young Ken to spend the night at his grandmother's house in Baltimore. The next morning before dawn, Burns' father woke him and they hopped in the car.

"We drove from Baltimore to Front Royal, Va., which is at the top of Skyline Drive, at the top of Shenandoah National Park," Burns recalls. "The Skyline Drive runs down the spine of the Shenandoah Mountains, and it is spectacular. We drove through tunnels, which I'd never done. We drove through clouds, which I'd never done. We saw deer on the road, which I had never seen. We saw a bear. We stayed in a little cabin, just my dad and me. We had a campfire. We took a hike to see a waterfall, which I had never seen. We turned over logs and saw these bright orange salamanders. And they scampered away, and I caught one.

But then he gets to the heart of the matter--what I tried to say in my own way earlier today.

"And I will never forget the thrill of it. ... It isn't just these places. It's who you see them with."

September 29, 2008 Telephone poles


35 years ago today, Ray and I made vows to each other to stay together through good times and bad and to respect each other forever. Boy, that sounds like a LONG time. But, in retrospect, it has passed like a flash of lightning.

It's only fitting that our "honeymoon" trip was before the actual "I dos"--hitchhiking through Europe for the summer of 1973. That trip was made with a total of about $1000, and we tented and ate cold food for the most part, and loved every (well, ALMOST every) minute of it. (There was the time in the rain in England...)But I'm digressing. In 1975, we did our 3 month cross-country trip (in our almost new VW bug), an introduction to the wonder that is this country. Then came the kids. It wasn't until after Lauren died in 1988 (Can you believe it was 20 years ago?), that we came to our senses and said to ourselves "If not now, when?" So, when Alex was 6, we started to travel again. Each year we went to someplace different. Ray and Alex would drive out a week or so before I would fly out, and they would meet me at our first travel spot. We would travel around a bit for 2 weeks, and then they would drive home afterward from the place they dropped me at the airport. What a great time! Over the years, we traveled to places like Mammoth Caves, Smoky Mountain, Arches, the Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Sequoia, Theodore Roosevelt National Parks and more. We even saw the wonders (!?) of the International Peace Garden. Over the years we've visited 33 of the 51 National Parks (several more than once!) in the lower 48 states, and 25 of the 75 National Monuments, and scores of other cool places (ever been to the Porter Music Box museum??? or McCook, NE??)

We have hiked miles and miles through New England and the northeast, and all over the states, as well as Europe. There was a time in 1973 in England when I was just about ready to give up on the day's hike. We had been on the go all day, and had a steep hill yet to climb, with all our traveling possessions in our backpacks. We still joke about it now. Ray's encouragement to me then was: "Come on! Just get to one more telephone pole!!" In other words: Don't let the size of the hill overwhelm you, just make it to the next telephone pole, then the next. We did make it up that hill.

So, this note comes as a public thank you to my travel, hiking, PB&J, cold-beer-on-a-hot-day, crazy eyebrow, good times and bad times partner. The good times have been wonderful, and the bad times have been bearable because we were together.

And I thank our parents, Larry and Eva, Ray and Anne, for modeling for us what the best of commitment, love, and marriage is.

Love you forever, Ray. I don't need any encouragement now, and the road seems so easy to walk as long as I am with you. I can say with a great deal of enthusiasm now: On to the next telephone pole!

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

September 3, 2008 How do you vacation?


Some time ago, before the "do not call" list was started, we were solicited for and decided to go on one of those time share offerings--come and listen to our pitch and tour our condos, and we'll give you dinner for 2 at a place of your choosing. We get a kick out of showing up and telling the sales person we talk to that we have no intention of buying, and that we just came for the dinner. I guess we just hope (s)he'll give up and just give us the bonus without the need to bother shepherding us around the place. That tactic has never worked, but it's worth it to see the sales person's face when you use it.

So having given our sales person our opening line, we waited for his response. I'll always remember this. He really didn't address our disinterest in purchasing his timeshare offering, but instead soldiered on:"How do you vacation?" We had all we could do to not laugh in the guy's face. We really had never considered using the word "vacation" as a verb to describe what we do. The rest of the conversation we had with this gentleman is really of no consequence (suffice it to say that we don't, and probably won't ever own a timeshare). But I thought it might be interesting to know what other people like to do on vacation. More specifically, where do you like to go, if you travel? And why? Maybe you prefer to stay home? So, I'm asking you: "How do you vacation?" Just click on the Comments button below.

Monday, September 1, 2008

August 26, 2008 Bad times for Winnebago


Ray had mentioned this to me recently, so I checked it out. The news for Winnebago Industries is dire. Winnebago sales are down drastically. Revenues are down 40% from a year ago, and shares have lost 60% of their value over the past year. Apparently the high price of gas and an uncertain economy has caught up with the motor home industry.

Interestingly enough, motorhome sales in Great Britain are up 50% . It seems that they are opting for adventures close to home over airline vacations.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

August 31, 2008 Boston again


A while ago Ray and I had had passing thoughts about buying a small place in Boston. We really love it there, but we also really love it here in NH. But we quickly decided that it is much cheaper to treat ourselves to a night in a nice hotel as we wish, and still enjoy the city without having to hustle home at the end of the day. So, last weekend was another jaunt into Boston for us. We had no big plans. Actually, we had NO plans. But it was a beautiful day in the 80s, so off we went. Our major entertainment for the day ended up as a sunset cruise of Boston harbor. We had at first considered the dinner cruises, but most if not all of them were dinner and dancing. Usually on those, the dinner sucks, and the dancing is to music that sucks too. So we opted for the safer sunset cruise.

The first danger sign came when the guy who was pointing out the sights over the PA system had a girly high pitched voice. It was really hard to hear him even without the wind roaring in your ears. But when you add the drunks yelling to the occupants of other boats, it was next to impossible. Fortunately, we knew the city pretty well already. So, no great loss. From what I could tell, his narration couldn't compete with that of the Circle Line tour of Manhattan, pretty much the gold standard for boat tours in our book.

But the tour itself is pretty cool. If you have ever walked the city, it's neat to see it from the water point of view. The evening and the sunset was gorgeous.

The next day, we strolled up Washington Street, the in-town shopping and financial district in Boston. It was something of a luxury to not be mobbed as we stopped to admire the architecture of the buildings. Usually because there is so much foot traffic in this area, it's uncomfortable to stop and stare up. That Sunday morning, with no one around we had the opportunity to enjoy the day and really see things we hadn't ever noticed or appreciated before--the fantastic details of a nineteenth century facade, the way that historic blends with the modern in the city.

All in all, it was a relaxing and enjoyable weekend. I've posted the pictures here if you'd like to see them.

Monday, August 18, 2008

August 18, 2008 Is windpower the solution?


When we were traveling through Minnesota, we had the opportunity to view windmills atop a ridge that stretched for many miles. To us they looked peaceful and beautiful. We could not imagine why, as a country, we were not developing all the potential windpower we could. It's clean, reliable, renewable.

Then I read recently this article in the New York Times online, and this Newsweek story. As is usually the case, there is another side to this issue, and it is a human one. Whether it's for greed, corruption, hardship or tradition, many have taken a stand against the proliferation of wind turbines in our landscape. In reading a bit more about the issue, I found the following information:

Wind power is expensive (even with subsidies), intermittent and unreliable. Many modern turbines are 400 feet tall and carry 130-foot, 7-ton blades. They operate at only 20%-30% of rated efficiency -- compared with 85% for coal, gas and nuclear plants -- and provide little power during summer daytime hours, when air-conditioning demand is highest, but winds are at low ebb. Wind turbines cannot store energy.

Using wind to replace all gas-fired power plants would require more than 300,000 turbines, covering Midwestern "wind belt" agricultural and wildlife acreage equivalent to the size of South Carolina.

Building and installing these turbines requires 5 to 10 times more steel and concrete than is needed to build nuclear plants to generate the same electricity more reliably, says Berkeley engineer Per Peterson. Add in steel and cement needed to build transmission lines from distant wind farms to urban consumers, and the costs multiply.
Wind thus means more quarries, mines, cement plants and steel mills to supply those materials.

What are the alternatives?
A single 1,000-MW nuclear power plant would reliably generate more electricity than 2,800 1.5-MW intermittent wind turbines on 175,000 acres. Permitting more nukes would meet increasing electricity demand for our growing population and millions of plug-in hybrid cars.

Coal offers centuries of affordable, reliable fuel for electricity and synthetic gas and oil, with steadily diminishing emissions. Between 1970 and 2006, coal-fired electricity generation nearly tripled -- while nitrogen oxide emissions remained at 1970 levels, sulfur dioxide pollution fell nearly 40% below 1970 emissions, and fine particulates declined to 90% below 1970 levels.

Perhaps a rational approach would be to look at ALL our options. Unfortunately, we have not had either a president or a congress with the testicular fortitude to move this along since the oil embargo in 1973, when we first figured out that we needed a homegrown solution to our thirst for energy.

Friday, August 15, 2008

August 15, 2008 Is Yellowstone dying?


I read today that scientists think that the underground volcano that fills the Yellowstone landscape with hot springs, bubbling mud, and geysers may not be as hot as previously expected. The implication is that the Yellowstone landscape may be changing over time, with hot springs dying out (as we saw at Mammoth Hot Springs), and thermal features disappearing. Of course this may (and probably will) happen over a long period of time. But it points to the idea that the earth is always changing, as much as we might like it to stay the same. This train of thought led me to thinking about the subject of global warming. For all it's worth, (probably not much) I think that any climatic change we may be seeing is the result of the ebb and flow of natural processes. Once there was a sea, then there was a jungle, now there is the Badlands--all changes that took place without the "interference" of man.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

August 13, 2008 The passing of a special traveler

What better place to remember Anna Marie Bartel Blank? She was a gentle soul who never had a negative word to say about anyone, and her love for her children and their spouses, grandchildren, and great grandchild was her anchor. An avid traveler, she cheered us on in our aspirations to discover the special places around the world. And she enjoyed reminiscing about all the wonderful places she had visited--Australia, Norway, France, and especially her first love, the US. Her knowledge and understanding of history helped her to appreciate her travels even more. She and Ray Sr. have been an inspiration to both Ray and me.

From the first day I met her 36 years ago, Anne made me feel a part of the Blank family. She gave unconditional love and acceptance to us, no matter what seemingly crazy or unconventional things we did or said--and there were more than a few of those over the years. Coming from a background that embraced traditions, I know that this must not have been easy. From the announcement of our hitchhiking trip through Europe, through our one month "engagement", to our "non-standard" wedding, to taking our cats in, and all the rest... Anne handled it with aplomb. If she ever disapproved, we never knew it. All we knew was that she loved us.

And through the years, I learned who she was, and she became part of me as much as I became part of the Blank family, replete with 3 additional sisters and 2 additional brothers. And so, I tell the world here that I will miss you, Anne. We’ll keep traveling, and while we can’t send a postcard, we will especially remember you when we’re on the road.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

July 30, 2008 Return of the bison


I was interested in a story posted today about the efforts of some people to return the bison to the wild. It shows that no issue these days is without pros and cons. Certainly the ranchers have a valid concern that bison infected with brucellosis should not be released to spread the disease to their cattle. And the land available to support massive herds of bison is definitely not sufficient. Even the National Bison Range keeps their herd small to maintain wildlife diversity on the refuge.

I was surprised to learn at the Bison Refuge that most of the bison alive today are not genetically pure bison, having cross-bred with cattle over the last century and a half. The bison at Yellowstone are the most genetically pure, as the article mentions. But how awesome would it be to see large herds of bison on the prairies again? The challenges of balancing economics and practicality with what is essentially emotion confronts us here. What do you think?

Friday, July 25, 2008

July 25, 2008 We're home, and so is Randy


I opened up my browser to Yahoo just now, and came upon the sad news that Randy Pausch has died. To those who don't know the name, Randy was a Carnegie Mellon University computer scientist whose "last lecture" about facing terminal cancer became an Internet sensation, a best-selling book, and a TV movie. He was 47. If you haven't had the opportunity to see the video of his last lecture, or the background to it, see it here (highly recommended to watch). If you have, and know of him, perhaps you are as saddened as I am.

So what has this to do with my trip diary? Everything. As Randy said "We don't beat the reaper by living longer, we beat the reaper by living well and living fully." Randy would say, "If you do nothing else in your life, have fun".

We're trying, Randy, we're trying.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

July 20, 2008 Back Home

The following are some disjointed observations that I may not have mentioned in previous postings.

* Cottonwood trees are obnoxious
* Large industrial-size toilet paper is hard to pull
* Based on reports from Ray, and my own experience using communal shower/bath areas, women are much bigger slobs than men
* Drivers lose all skill they may have had when they enter natural areas and see wildlife. An otherwise presumably intelligent person will stop dead on the road to look at a bison in a field 100 yards away.
* On long drives, it’s a good idea to check fluids regularly (the Impala gave us a scare at one point—only needed coolant—a LOT of coolant…)
* Food prices EVERYWHERE are much higher than back home in NH (small peaches for over $1.00 each in Wisconsin??!!)
* Verizon is the best cell carrier—that guy in glasses and his friends really are everywhere…)
* Cruise control is one of the finest inventions—especially west of the Mississippi
* Any hot dog that is not natural casing (even Hebrew National) sucks
* 2 things that keep America together: Walmart and World Weekly News
* Hanging a wet towel out to dry in windy weather out west will dry it quickly and maybe make it dirtier than when you hung it out.
* A cold beer, comfortable chair, and a view of the mountains make everything alright
* Fruit is extremely expensive in western states
* Unless you want to pay $3.95 for a can of Manwich, try not to buy groceries anywhere near a campground
* We didn’t see many eastern license plates at all when we were out west. They must be flying in and renting cars.
* There are still a lot of RVs in campgrounds, despite high gas prices
* Block ice lasts at least 3x as long as ice cubes
* Water in Montana and Wyoming tastes good, but is very mineral tasting and cold right out of the tap
* All boys, no matter how old, have a compelling drive to throw rocks in water or over the edge of a chasm.
* Our favorite ranch name (seen in Montana): “Lottsawatta”
* Cheapest gas on our trip, seen in Gillette, WY: $3.789/gallon
* Odd gas fact: in SD, gas stations have cheaper Plus gas than regular
* Final stats:

Gallons of gas: 208.524

Average mpg: 30.84

Miles traveled: 6431

Total expenses—food, gas, lodging: under $2500 (we know how to live cheaply!)

Friday, July 18, 2008

July 18, 2008 Stan Hywet, Akron , OH


Today we started out with the intention to visit two places: Stan Hywet (pronounced Stan Hee-wet), and the National Inventors' Hall of Fame., both in Akron, OH. First on the agenda was Stan Hywet, the former home of the founder of Goodyear Rubber, Fred Sieberling. We told Bambi to take us there, a feat which she has accomplished admirably throughout our trip (or for at least 95% of the time). But the city of Akron had other plans for us. Only .3 of a mile from our destination, we came to a road block--a literal road block due to construction. There were no signs or information as to how to detour around it to our destination, ands Bambi wasn't any help either, always rerouting us to the spot of the blockage. Brain power to the rescue! Ray figured our way around this, and we set off to explore.

Betweeen 1912 and 1915, Fred Sieberling and his wife, Gertrude built a country estate in Akron, and called it Stan Hywet, Old English for "Stone Quarry". Set on 70 acres of landscaped grounds and gardens, the 65 room, 25 bathroom Manor House is of English Tudor design. But it has many modern conveniences (for the time it was built) like phones and central heating, and in the kitchen, a steam table, electric refrigerators, and a gas/coal/wood cooking range. We opted for a guided house tour. Although the house was as hot as an oven (the day was in the steamy 90s, and the house had no air conditioning), and Ray just about had to pour me out of the house at the end of the tour, it was interesting. More impressive , though, were the gardens and conservatory. Amazing to both of us, was the fact that the Sieberlings used this house as a 3-season residence--all but summer. Yet the gardens were always maintained, even though they were never here to enjoy them at their summer peak. And they truly are spectacular. The conservatory as it exists today is a replication of the original style that was originally built for fruit and flower growing. We checked out the butterfly exhibition at the conservatory. Also of note, is that Stan Hywet is the the place where Alcoholics Anonymous was born in 1935. Beautiful grounds, interesting home.

We were two of the last people ushered from the grounds of the property at 4:30. By then, it was too late to consider the Inventors' Hall of Fame. After considering our options, we decided to get home on Saturday, and so, headed to Rochester to retrieve Jerry. We'll stay there tonight, and head home Saturday.

Thanks for following our blog. It's not done yet though. Check in tomorrow for other observations that may not have been mentioned on previous days. I'm hoping to get the photos out in batches, and will link on each blog entry the place to see the photos for that day.

See photos of the day here.

Love you all,
Carol

Thursday, July 17, 2008

July 17, 2008 Indiana Lakeshore & Cord Museum


We decided to rush home, and visit Hampton Beach, NH. See the above photo. Or....maybe not. Maybe...we visited the Indiana (?!) Dunes National Lakeshore. Did you know that Indiana had shoreline on Lake Michigan? See here. After a bit of a trial finding the visitor center, we drove to the entrance to a trail to Indiana's "Mount Baldy", a "large" sand dune on Lake Michigan. It is 123 feet tall and is the largest "living" dune that marram grass and cottonwood trees cannot hold in place. This mound of sand actually moves south at a rate of four to five feet each year, burying all woodlands in its path. If someone blindfolded you and dropped you on the shore of Lake Michigan (or any of the Great Lakes) without tasting the water (it's fresh, not salt, obviously), you'd be hard pressed to know that you were not at the edge of an ocean. The water was shallow on the beach beyond the dunes, and so the water was refreshingly cool (not bone-numbing cold as is Atlantic waters). We spent a little time on the beach, and moved on.

Our next stop was to be the Auburn Cord-Dusenberg museum, an auto museum about 2 hours south of the Dunes. Our only miscalculation was that we had crossed the time zone to eastern, and had lost an hour during the day. By the time we got there, we didn't really have enough time to properly explore, but still got a great look at the museum. We saw one of the first front wheel drive cars, a giant 156" wheel base 1930s Cord (very cool looking), an early electric car from the turn of the century, and a prototype 30s car with disappearing headlights. Too bad we didn't really have the time to do this place justice. We were the last ones out the door before the ticket taker.

On to Toledo where we will spend the night.

See photos of the day here.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

July 16, 2008 Olbrich Gardens, Madison, WI


Last night was the first night on our trip that we really longed for the comfort of air conditioning. At about 8 pm, we arrived at the Oakdale, WI KOA, and were led by golf cart (by Denny, the proprietor) to our cabin that had been closed up all day. The cabin had been sitting in the sun all day and the windows and door had been closed. When we opened the door, we were greeted with a blast of hot air that stunned us. The heat was bad enough, but it accompanied the humidity that had been building all day as we moved east. There was a ceiling fan in the cabin, but it did little to clear out the heat in the cabin. Taking into account that I sweat profusely, I seriously considered sleeping on the porch swing for the night. By 11:30, we decided to try sleeping with the door and windows open. If it had been just hot and humid, that would have been enough aggravation. But it turns out that this particular KOA is located right off the Interstate. Most, if not all, the cabins we've stayed at so far have been in fairly remote, quiet areas. As we tried to invite sleep, we listened to the drone of cars , and the whine and roar of tractor trailers speeding by. We might as well have been sleeping in the break down lane.

Funny thing was, that as we staggered to the bathrooms in the morning to shower and get ready for the new day, we passed a man relaxing outside his permanently installed RV reading the paper. Who would vacation just yards from a major interstate highway in brutal heat and humidity? And why sit outside instead of in his air conditioned RV? Is this insanity common to Wisconsin dwellers?

Today we decided to investigate Madison, capitol of Wisconsin. There is a public garden there of some renown, the Olbrich Botanical Gardens. The history of this park is interesting. Michael Olbrich was a lawyer who, in the early 1900s, bought up land along the lake on which Madison resides to keep that area from being swallowed up by residential and industrial development. Due to his efforts, this lovely park exists today. It is remarkable in that it is not just a greenway, but has specialty gardens (meadow, perennials, shade, herb, rose, rock, etc) filled with flowers that are perfectly kept. This public park is exceptionally manicured. For us, the only downside was the enduring humidity. The 68% humidity and 72 degree dew point were unbearable. Only last week, we hiked up steep inclines for miles at 90 degree + temps with no problem. The humidity made the air so thick, you could cut it with a proverbial knife.

After the park, we did a bit of a tour of Madison (nice city--pop 500,000+), and then departed for IL where we will stay for the night (in a motel! on sheets!) and have dinner (in a restaurant! and eat hot food! that someone else prepares!).

See photos of the day here.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

July 15, 2008 Winnebagos and SPAM


And now for something completely different. Today we left Jackson, MN for a tour of Winnebago Industries in Forest City, IA, about 1 ½ hours away from Jackson. We traveled through some of Minnesota’s beautiful farmland once again. Right, left, left, right, down roads on which we would see one or two cars at the most, and cornfields on each side as far as the eye could see. Oh, and a few windmills as well. As we drove down CR23 in Minnesota, a straight shot from I90 into Iowa, through more cornfields to the horizon, I spotted a woman coming out of her farm house to go to her mailbox to collect her mail. It occurred to me that that’s pretty amazing. Out here in the remote country, they get their daily mail, just like in Boston, or LA. There are a lot of things in this country that go right (for the most part).

We arrived at Winnebago Industries, the maker of the Winnebago RV, in time for the 11 am tour. They herded our group into a room to show us a little promo film on their RVs and then we boarded a bus to shuttle around their large facility. It struck Ray and me that we were veritable youngsters compared to all the others taking this tour. The tour itself was pretty interesting. We had the opportunity to go into some of the facilities and see how the units are put together, and what makes these RVs unique. The picture above is of a cutout promo of the owner of Winnebago and his philosophy, prominently featured in the little museum onsite. We liked his ideas... Now, all we have to do is scrape up the $100,000+ for the unit and the $50,000+ for the gas to drive it around, and we’re all set. Worth the trip…

After a brief stop in the Forest City park for lunch, we departed for Austin, MN, home of everyone’s favorite lunchmeat---------------------SPAM. In 2002, The Hormel Company built a museum dedicated to the history of SPAM in the town where it was originated, and where it is still made (fabricated, er….concocted, er…).The museum is done partly tongue-in-cheek, partly marketing, partly historically. They tell the story of the man who started the Hormel factory, how the company grew, its involvement in the WWII effort, and its growth into a multi-national company. Did you know there are 6 varieties of SPAM? Did you know that SPAM is made of pork, ham, sugar, salt, spices, potato starch and sodium nitrite? Find out all you ever wanted to learn about SPAM, (and more that you didn’t) here. It was fun and worth the stop.

On to Oakdale, WI where we will spend the night in our (you guessed it) KOA cabin.

See photos of the day here.

Monday, July 14, 2008

July 14, 2008 Mitchell, SD & Pipestone, MN


Mitchell, SD is a town that is slightly larger than Amherst, NH. It happens to have a convention center there, called the Corn Palace. Such is the size of South Dakota that a town the size of Amherst can host conventions. But this is the case. The renown of the Corn Palace is such that they even have junk peddlers..er , I mean…souvenir shops across the street from the “Convention Center”. The unique feature of the Corn Palace (and there really is ONLY one) is that the decoration outside the “palace” (and I DO use the word VERY loosely) is (supposed to be) completely done in corn and corn pieces. Since Mitchell is right off the interstate, I asked that we detour into Mitchell to view the wonder that is the Corn Palace. I figured it would be a “drive by”. And BOY, was it ever. Check the photo above to see the glory of the Corn Palace. The only problem was that they weren’t done applying the corn to the building, so there were large plywood gaps in the designs, a feature sure to bring the crowds hustling into Mitchell. Geez, this is the height of tourist season! When were they figuring on getting the façade covered? Sometime as the snow starts to fly in SD? That could be as late as August!!!

From the ridiculous to the sublime. On to Pipestone National Monument, a lovely spot in south western Minnesota. First, a note on how we got here. Usually, we have been relying on Bambi to direct us wherever we wanted to go. I plug in the address, and she tells us how to get there. Such was the case with Pipestone. We left the Interstate as she told us to, and went down some long, funky, VERY rural roads. I must admit, I was getting a bit nervous as time was going on, and we hadn’t reached our destination. We were in podunkville for what seemed like a long time. Finally, we see a sign for the town of Pipestone. Hurray!! Bambi’s right again! Or… maybe not. We went down some streets in this town that the natives probably don’t use, to find ourselves looking at the back of what MIGHT be something Indian. By then, we turned Bambi off. She was recalculating our route WAY too many times. We finally found our way to the front of the monument.

This spot has spiritual meaning to all the Native American tribes. The stone quarried here is used by all American Indian tribes to make pipes. It was understood by all tribes that this spot was sacred, a place where all tribes would set aside differences, and work together to quarry the stone, a beautiful red stone used in their pipes (peace pipes?!). It is soft and easily worked. The quarries for this stone are set in the Minnesota prairie, an area that because of its spiritual significance was never farmed. It always was, and remains, tallgrass prairie. As you walk through this monument you feel the serenity of the place—the blowing grass in the wind, the flowers that punctuate the grassland, and the quiet.

Having read that 15 miles north of here there was a windmill belt across the cornfields, we decided to check it out. We followed the AAA directions, and saw nothing. Ray suggested that we go to the top of the hill to our right. Nothing there, so then we asked Bambi to route us to our destination for the night, Jackson, MN. Bambi suggested a route other than retracing our route to the interstate. It turned out to be a gem of a suggestion. This route took us through cornfields as far as the eye could see, with windmills dotting the horizon all along the way. We saw a car only once in a great while, sometimes a tractor, and once, a horse drawn wagon. Mostly the roads we took were empty. A highlight was a farmer walking through his corn field. Whenever you see a clump of trees in amongst the expansive fields, you can identify a house or group of farm buildings. We went through towns called Jasper, Lake Wilson, and Wilmont, most of whose populations were less than 300. The unbelievable part of this is that this 2 hour ride was through a tiny portion of the beautiful state that is Minnesota. Open skies and rolling farm fields, we’ll be back.

We ended our day at the Jackson, MN KOA where Bambi screwed up again (told us to go right instead of left as the KOA sign on the highway instructed). Oh well, we all make mistakes…

See photos of the day here.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

July 13, 2008 Badlands Day 2


Today we planned to explore the Badlands a bit more. But let me tell you about our first night in the tent on this trip. Last night we met some very nice people who were tenting in the spot next to ours. They were from Central Pennsylvania (near Penn State), and were at the end of a two month tour of the country. They had been up in Alaska, and were wending their way home, expecting to be back by the beginning of next week. Before we all turned in for the night, the mister warned us that the Mrs. was a world class snorer. He was right. Just as we were settling in, we heard a growling noise. A bear? Some other animal? No, it was the Mrs. Just one of those campground annoyances. Then there was the cold. It only got down to 50 degrees or so, but it sure felt colder. We wore our sweat clothes and each used an extra blanket with our sleeping bags. It would have been OK (just OK--not great, I might add), if the Mrs. hadn't snored all night, and if Ray's air mattress had stayed inflated. This morning dawned bright and sunny, and we had pitched the tent to get the morning sun, so the tent warmed up nicely.

So off to the Badlands Park to take the Medicine loop trail. About 4 miles long, it traveled through prairie around the badland rock formations. The prairie itself was studded with wildflowers, and was the kind of place that inspires such a sense of peace in its quiet atmosphere. A lovely walk, made even more pleasant by the dry cool breeze we enjoyed for most of the trail. At times the prairie filled the horizon, and it was hard to imagine that this was so close to the "forbidding " badland rock formations.

We then enjoyed a lunch (you know what it was, Alex, right?) by the side of the road under the shade of a tree.

Further exploration took us to a short 1/4 mile trail. 1/4 mile? No problemo...Except for the fact that the 1/4 mile goes straight up the side of the rocks. Now, even that's not too bad--except that the rocks crumble when you try to grab onto them for support. The rock here is very soft, a fact that has created the landscape by erosion. When you look closely at the composition of the hills, you can see cracks and lines. When you drop a rock from waist high, it may break into several pieces. So as we tried to ascend this steep hill, the trail seemed to slip out from under our feet. When we tried to hold onto something for support, it broke off. Going up was bad enough. Coming down was worse. I spent a fair amount of my trip down on my butt. When that little jaunt was over, I had had enough for the day.

So we decided to take the road through the park--very scenic, and head toward Wall, home of Wall Drug. The road there offered expansive views of the plains around the park. We passed fields with hay rolls to the horizon, and at one point, we were flagged down by a man in a pickup who asked us to pull over for the "windrower" that was coming up the hill on the other side. I'm sure he knew we weren't locals when Ray asked, "What's a windrower?" It's one of those gigantic haying machines.

On to Wall, as Ray says "Chock full of schlock". This place has every imaginable trinket, gee-gaw, worthless piece of junk you can possibly imagine, served up in the name of the almighty dollar to pull in anxious tourists. What a nuthouse, in such stark contrast to the country around it. But we did see a wonderful exhibit there of historic photographs of cowboys and indians ( yeah--I know, very un-pc word). The stories of the photographers were wonderful to read.

By then, it was getting late. Back to the campground for a beer or two, and dinner. And one more night in the tent. At least tonight the Mrs. is on her way home, and we have no neighbors.

See photos of the day here.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

July 12, 2008 Badlands in a tent


Drove from Devils Tower to Rapid City to buy groceries. Thank God for the GPS (we call the female guiding voice "Bambi") in guiding us wherever we need to go! She always gets us to whatever service we need.

Anyway, after our Walmart stop, off to the Badlands. We will camp here for 2 nights. And when I say camp, I mean tent camp. Arrived early afternoon, and set up the tent. Hurray!! Ray and I did not kill each other in the process!! (Well, we ALMOST did, but succeeded with no bloodshed!!) In truth, a few harsh words were spoken, but we're still on speaking terms...(Just kidding!)

Badlands was just a few miles up the road, so once we were settled in, we went back up to the Visitor Center. There we watched a short movie that showcased people from around the area talking about reminiscences of growing up here, and the challenges of being neighbors to a National Park. Often private and public interests conflict. What the park sees as a natural enhancement to the park (the reintroduction of a species for example), sometimes the rancher sees as pests. A white-haired woman in her 70s who lived on the Pine Bluff reservation and runs a cafe there, bemusedly said that when vacationers come to her cafe, they want to see "Indians". She is a full blooded Sioux. Another man recalled that his father had homesteaded in 1916 here in South Dakota. The movie showed pictures of the rough hewn shack in which he grew up. His father was a Czech immigrant who wanted to make it in America. So they moved from Milwaukee and made their home here. He was born 6 years later, and has been here in the South Dakota plains ever since. But the idea you come away with after listening to all these voices, is that they love and embrace the wide open plains on which they live. What we see as an unimaginablie life, they see as the only life they would want to live.

To describe the Badlands for those who have never visited here, imagine the following. You've ridden for miles and miles seeing open , rolling plains to the horizon, and all of a sudden, you come upon a warren of jagged rocks, deep canyons, towering spires and flat-topped tables among the buttes--all in the middle of the plains. It really is worth the trip. We explored a few shorter trails for the rest of the afternoon, and will try a longer one tomorrow. One of he trails we started up took us ap a steep ladder to the top of a rocky area. We followed the trail along the very edge of the high rocky perch, when we came to a sign on the trail. "Dangerous area, keep to the right". Well, the "safe" area we were supposed to travel was a ledge about 2 feet wide, covered with loose gravel, with no handholds. Since we were about 100 feet up, and the passage looked VERY dicey, sanity ruled and we turned back.

Of note here, is the incredible wind. Ever since Glacier, the wind has been gusting. Even though we've slathered ourselves with spf50 sunscreen, I think we have windburn. Keeping a hat on your head is next to impossible unless you somehow tie it on. But the days have been sunny and very comfortable.

See photos of the day here.

Friday, July 11, 2008

July 11, 2008 Crazy Woman Rd. and Devils Tower


After reading an article on the bulletin board at the Buffalo KOA, we were intrigued about a drive described as “not to be missed”. Since we’re not often in this part of the country, we decided to take the drive. Before we left, though, we took the extra precaution to clarify with the campground proprietor that the road, while dirt, was navigable by a sedan. “No problem!” she said. “RVs can do it.” Encouraged, off we went.

Well, I must say, that I have never seen an RV that can take the rocks, ruts and bounces we took down the Crazy Woman Canyon Road. I have new respect for the Impala after this drive—15 miles of rocky, rutted dirt that runs into a canyon that is spectacular with steep rock walls on both sides of the one way road. For most of the road, only one car can pass. If another car comes along the other way, one of you has to back up (over rocks and ruts, mind you) to the nearest turnout. And there weren’t many turnouts.

To be fair, only the first 8-9 miles or so are rough going. (Our top speed through that stretch was maybe 5 mph tops.) The rest is reasonably navigable. As a matter of fact, the last part of the route takes you through high plains, with views to the horizon. We saw a mother and baby antelope grazing not too far in the distance. But one major issue I haven’t mentioned is the wind. We had read that although the day would be sunny, we should expect winds gusting 35 to perhaps 50 mph. And boy, did the forecast deliver. It was even hard to stand up in some places out in the open.

After this adventure, it was again time to stock up on groceries. We stopped in Gillette, WY and discovered a boom in building there. The road construction had traffic tied up, and the wind (it was still gusting) was blowing dust in clouds. We hastily made our purchases at Walmart, and left for Devils Tower, about 2 hours northeast of Gillette.

Driving Wyoming roads is amazing. Like many places in the Midwest, the Wyoming plains are rolling hills with no trees or bushes at all. You can, as I’ve noted before, see to the horizon all around you. We were wondering how the kids out in the middle of nowhere get schooled?

Arrived at Devils Tower by 2 pm. Settled into our KOA cabin which directly faces the tower. (One cute sidebar: The campgound shows the film Close Encounters of the Third Kind every night.) Then we drove the ½ mile up the road to the National Monument. We learned there that Devils Tower was not created by rock upthrust through the earth’s surface. It was created under ground. The ground essentially eroded around it. That's about a mile of erosion. One other little tidbit: when Congress wrote legislation making it the first National Monument, it incorrectly spelled Devils without an apostrophe. That’s why it is spelled “Devils”, and not “Devil’s”.

We took the little 1.3 mile trail around the monument, the decided to do a bit more exploring, and took the Red Beds trail (3 miles). The Red Beds trail was lovely, taking us along the edge of a hill with fabulous valley views, through iron-stained bluffs and into a broad prairie.

By this time, it was getting late, and we returned to the campground for dinner. Tomorrow we head for the Badlands.

See photos of the day here.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

July 10, 2008 Pompeys Pillar & Little Bighorn


Today our destinations were Pompeys Pillar and The Little Bighorn National Battlefield. (See our complete route here.) Out of the mountains we traveled into the plains, and picked up the interstate in Billings. More wide-open country you will never find--it is, after all, called Big Sky country. I can't think of any place in NH that has a continuous 360 degree view of the horizon--rolling hills cover in sweet clover, as far as the eye could see, a yellow blanket.

After stopping in Billings to buy more groceries, we continued on to Pompeys Pillar. The pillar is a large stone formation near the Yellowtone River. After having reached the Pacific, Lewis and Clark started their return home, but their aim was not just to return home as quickly as possible. They wanted to explore as much of this new part of the US as possible, and decided to split up the Corps of Discovery to cover more ground. Clark was to take the Yellowstone River and meet Lewis at the meeting of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers further east. On this return trip, Clark saw the outcropping that is now called Pompeys Pillar, climbed it, and left the only tangible evidence of the great expedition--he scribed his name and the date in the rock of the Pillar. See our photo above. In his journal, he wrote: "…arrived at a remarkable rock situated in an extensive bottom… this rock I ascended and from it's top had a most extensive view in every direction. This rock which I shall call Pompy's Tower is 200 feet high and 400 paces in secumpherance and only axcessable on one Side … The nativs have ingraved on the face of this rock the figures of animals & near which I marked my name and the day of the month & year." (Underlining added)

Both Ray and I were inspired to actually be at the spot where this history was made. Lewis and Clark changed the face of this country by charting what was then the territory purchased from France that gave the US a western boundary on the Pacific Ocean. This one expedition essentially helped make America what it has become. And we were privileged to be at the only place where there was tangible evidence of their passing. Awesome. (BTW, the pillar is named for Sacagawea's baby son, who accompanied her on the expedition. Pomp was William Clark's pet name for the boy.)

On to another historically significant spot, only 1 1/2 hours away form the Pillar. The Little Bighorn Nation Battlefield is the place where, in 1876, 263 soldiers and attached personnel of the U.S. Army, including Lt. Col. George A. Custer, met death at the hands of several thousand Lakota and Cheyenne warriors. The site is very well presented, with a clear explanation of how the battle occurred. We were privileged to arrive in time to hear a wonderful presentation by park ranger Gerald Jasper, on exactly what led up to the battle and the historic significance of the battle. His passion for the subject and vivid description was riveting. Again, being in the actual location of the event added great meaning to what he described. Coming here was a real treat.

By now, it was 4:30, and we had not yet decided where we would stay for the evening. Lo and behold, there was no cell signal in the area we were traveling (Verizon COULDN'T hear us now...) Eventually, we hit a signal, called a KOA, and I now write to you from the KOA cabin in Buffalo, Wyoming.

Not sure yet what tomorrow may bring...Sending love...

See pictures of the day here.

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

July 9, 2008 Yellowstone and Beartooth Highway


Off to Yellowstone National Park, and ultimately Red Lodge, MT today. See our route here. The road to Yellowstone for Bozeman, MT was predictably beautiful. Hills were covered with what looked like green fuzz, but what was actually pine trees. It became evident the closer we got to Yellowstone that the area was recovering from fires. In 1988 there were widespread wildfires that persisited for almost the entire summer. The result was a burn of almost 800,000 acres, what was about 36% of the total acreage of the park. But as I said, it was evident that the area was in recovery. In between the charred stumps and standing remains of burned trees, were smaller pines. And everywhere green growth and wildflowers.

Shortly after our entrance to the park, we saw a golden eagle nest.

On to Mammoth Hot Springs, an area of huge limestone deposits from underground hot springs that bubble up to the surface. The deposits look like giant mounds of vanilla ice cream. Back in the 90s, we came here with Alex, and the springs were flowing all around, and the smell of sulphur was strong. Now, mammoth Hot Springs are dry. Apparently, the springs can flow to different areas, or be diverted because of meineral build up. At any rate, Mammoth Hot Springs has very few remaining springs. The limestone deposits are what are left. We did a small circuit tour of Mammoth Hot Springs for an hour or so and moved on. Before we were done, though, we encountered a man who was walking the Mammoth Hot Spring boardwalk who, if nothing else, can be inspiration for all of us. This guy was walking with 2 crutches, and had obviously non-functioning legs in braces. He hiked up all the stairs to the top by himself and with great effort.

Our feelings about Yellowstone are mixed. What should be a wild and pristine place is wall to wall people. And this is understandable because there are so many things unique to this park—geysers, mud pots, thermal pools, wildlife… But unless you get out of the popular areas, and into the lesser used areas of the park, it feels more like a museum than a park.

From Mammoth Hot Springs, we drove northeast and decided to drive the 6 mile gravel road up on the Blacktail Plateau, an area known for wolf sightings. We weren’t expecting the gorgeous meadows we found there—red, pink, purple, yellow and white flowers, with the white cap peaks as a backdrop. A little bit of heaven. We continued on the road to exit the park when we came upon a small obstacle: a bison was strolling down the middle of the road. We came to a stop, but he didn’t, and kept on coming, heading directly for the car. At the last moment, he turned to his left, and stepped to the passenger side of the car. If my window had been open, I could have smelled his breath, he was that close. The picture that I snapped was of a giant bison head.

On to Red Lodge via the Beartooth Highway, what Charles Kuralt called the most beautiful drive in America. While I’m not so sure I agree, it is most certainly one of the finest roads we have driven. While I think I prefer the drama of the Going to the Sun Road at Glacier, with the peaks on all sides, the Beartooth provides unbelievable panoramas of the mountains at every twist and turn (and there are MANY). The 53.7-mile, 3 hour drive offers skytop views of snowcapped peaks, glaciers, alpine lakes and plateaus. The Beartooths are one of the highest elevation and most rugged areas in the lower 48 states, with 20 peaks over 12,000 feet in elevation. One of the earliest organized trips across the Beartooth Plateau was led in August 1882 by Lt. General Philip Sheridan of Civil War fame. The Beartooth Highway roughly follows the path of that expedition.

At the end of the Beartooth Highway sits Red Lodge, our destination for the night. We met a couple staying at the cabin next door. They are middle school math teachers who are originally from Tennessee and moved to Billings, MT 14 years ago. The husband was a computer programmer in TN and wanted a change when they moved here, and so became a teacher. The wife was always a teacher. They love MT and the availability of all the things they have here: hunting, fishing, camping, hiking.

That’s all for now. Tomorrow takes us to Pompeys Pillar, Little Big Horn, and maybe Devils Tower. Til tomorrow…

See photos of the day here.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

July 8, 2008--Helena, MT


On the advice of the father of a family we met at the West Glacier KOA, we decided to go to Helena, MT today. As incredible as it seemed to us, this family from Lethbridge, Alberta had never visited the St. Mary (eastern side) of Glacier National Park. Only a one hour and 42 minute drive to some of the most beautiful country, and he'd never visited, even though he'd lived in Lethbridge for the past five years (they'd moved from British Columbia). Amazing. We talked about the trails he might investigate there with his two young sons and wife, and he discussed some of the places he had visited. Helena had made an impression on him.

So off we went through more of the same gorgeous valleys and mountains. Arrived in Helena around 1:00 and found the Helena Cathedral first. The tour guide approached us and asked us if we'd like a tour, so we agreed. Building started in 1908, as our he told us, and ended in 1912. He gave us all the history of the cathedral. The church itself is beautiful--everything looks so well cared for. As a matter of fact, he told us that the church was in the process of a major renovation for which they were in the process of raising $4MM. They had replaced the floors (with tile), cleaned some of the many stained glass windows (fabulous). The stained glass in this cathedral were striking. I guess what impressed both Ray and me was that there were so many. On both walls, there were 2 levels of windows--all stained glass, in addition to the full wall of stained glass behind the altar and above the choir loft in the rear. The lighting was all gold leafed. The baptismal font was the only piece that really did not fit the cathedral. It was tiled, and looked much more modern than in any Gothic church I've ever seen. (It had an adult immersion pool as well as the infant bowl.) We lit a candle in Mary's chapel to the side of the main altar for strength, health and peace for Fr. Steve . The stained glass windows were worth the trip. And the personal guided tour was a bonus.

After this, we drove over to the state house. We were struck by the lack of security, as we casually strolled in the lower level doors. No one checked bags. We didn't see anyone, as we gave ourselves our own tour. I guess we've gotten used to security 2008 that we expected more attention to our presence. While not overly impressive (the Utah capitol, and for that matter,, the Massachusetts capitol are great), it was OK. One somewhat interesting side note is that on the second floor, there is a statue of Mike Mansfield, former senator from MT. His statue is joined with that of his wife. The only way he would permit a statue of himself in the capitol was to demand that his wife be portrayed next to him. What a smart guy!! A highlight of the capitol was the statue out front. It was of Thomas Francis Meagher, first governor of the state of Montana. The plaque on the statue tells his story: he formed the Irish Brigade for the Army of the Potomac, commanded in the battles of Fair Oaks, Mechanicsville, Gaines Mill, White Oaks Swamp, Malvern Hill, Antietam, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, and was acting governor from 1865 til his death. After surviving all that, he drowned in the Missouri River at Fort Benton on July 1, 1867. Imagine surviving all those battles, only to drown in the river.

We had been told that Helena had a great "Mansion district"--opulent homes built as a result of the gold rush here. We set off to check it out, only to find that sections in Newton, MA, or Brookline, MA are far more "Mansion-y" than what we found. Oh well, different strokes...

From there to Bozeman, MT where we will spend the night at another KOA cabin. These are really a great way to go.

See photos of the day here.

Monday, July 7, 2008

July 7, 2008 National Bison Range


Off to the National Bison Range.
At the refuge the government keeps a herd of about 350-500 bison as a reminder of the great herds that once roamed this country. The road took us through several VERY small towns, and Polson, a bit larger. The refuge is in a very out of the way location. This results in very little visitation. That works great for me. The greatest charm of this place is the absolute quiet and peace. There are 2 small trails that lead to wonderful vistas, and one that tells of the fact that the valley below the refuge was once a vast lake thousands of years ago. The highest lake level was only 550 feet below the place where Ray is standing in the photo. With no traffic noise, no planes overhead, and no other people around, the solitude was astounding. All you could hear was the wind, the grass rustling, and the insects buzzing. And we were surrounded by hillsides of flowers and grass with the mountains in the distance. This place is a treasure.

All that and the bison... The bison take no heed of cars as they drive through the refuge, and sometimes they park themselves in the middle of the road. They really are impressive animals.

We are staying at another cabin in a KOA in Missoula tonight. We did a bit of housekeeping (laundry), and caught a little bit of TV. I can't say I've missed it at all, and won't miss it for another 2 weeks.

Off to Helena, then Bozeman tomorrow.
See today's photos here.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

July 6, 2008 Avalanche Lake--Glacier day 4


Today we set off for the west side of Glacier via the Going to the Sun Road. The closer we approached Logan Pass (the high point on the road), the cloudier it got. Many of the peaks were shrouded in clouds. In numerous spots, waterfalls cascaded over the road, and in some of those places, the road was eroded. It was for that reason (and many others) that the Park Service is in the process of road repair. Since the road is so narrow, they have lane closures that result in single lane traffic and traffic stoppages. It was directly after the flow of traffic on the westbound side started moving, that we spotted a mountain goat on the road--not just on the road, but right next to the car. Ray snapped the picture you see here.

For anyone who has never driven the GTTS Road, it is a 2 lane road that is barely wide enough in some spots to fit two cars side by side. Take into account that some drivers, spooked by the fact that they are driving VERY close to the edge of the mountain, drive over the center double line, and it makes for an interesting experience. So while you're dodging the rocks that jut out into the roadway (I mean, you can actually reach out and touch the rocks on the passenger side as you drive by), you need to be aware of the louts that can't stay on their own side of the road. Dad, you'd love this!

Over on the west side, we stopped at the area called Avalanche Lake. The 2.9 mile trail (one way) follows the Avalanche Creek gorge, winding upwards through the forest until it reaches the foot of Avalanche Lake. The lake is rimmed with steep cliffs on three sides with numerous waterfalls cascading downward from the hanging cirque valley formed by Sperry Glacier. Once on the trail, it felt very much like NH--deep forest. The lake at the end was quite spectacular, though, that typical Glacier aqua water.

After our hike, we stopped at the Lake McDonald Lodge, a designated historic site. This was one of the first lodges for the rich travelers who came by railroad to visit Glacier.

We ended the day at our KOA cabin in West Glacier. Since we had no dinner food left from our shopping foray at Great Falls, we had a dinner at the KOA. They offer a barbecue dinner (steak, corn on the cob , baked potato) for less than most restaurants and equal or better quality, and you can chat with the guy cooking your steak. Good deal.

Man we're pooped.
Til tomorrow...

See photos of the day here.

Saturday, July 5, 2008

July 5, 2008 Two Medicine-- Glacier day 3


The day started and ended WINDY. So we figured we'd start by trying out a shorter trail at the Two Medicine area in the southeast part of the park, since we had never visited that part before. The Aster Park trail seemed to be an easier choice at a total of 3.8 miles roundtrip and rising 670 feet in that distance. what we didn't know was that the 670 feet was all in the last 1/2 mile or less. Even so, the trail took us through some lovely meadows filled with wildflowers, and the payoff after the steep ascent was an almost 360 degree view of the mountains. Breathtaking. On the way back, we were startled by the sight of a muledeer on the trail. It was obvious that he was quite used to seeing hikers, because he didn't bolt at our approach. He just kept on munching vegetation. Better there than in my back yard.

Since it was only about 1:30 by the time we had finished that hike, we decided to try another short hike--1.2 miles round trip to Appistoki Falls, a short part of a longer hike of 6.2 miles called Scenic Point. We had considered doing the Scenic Trail earlier, but we had been told to expect winds of 30+mph, and maybe some snow on the trail. The Scenic Trail rises 2350 feet. So, we started out for the Falls. A short jaunt later we were at the falls, and a gate blocked the trail. I, in my infinite wisdom, said, "No, the trail continues around to the top of the falls, and you have to go around the gate." So, we went...up to the Scenic Trail, via a cutoff that had evidence of slides. Probably not the safest route, but...

The view from the Scenic Trail was incredible, as we were above the tree line. Enticed, we continued on--just for a little bit, or so we thought at the time. Windy---HELL Yeah. But the views... So we continued on...Switchback after switchback, we went up and up and up, with the views becoming even more spectacular. But man, after a few hours, your calves start to tell you "no mas". But, we continued on, til we arrived at a point on the trail where the switchback had come to an edge looking directly out on the lake and the mountains beyond. But the trail along the edge looked VERY narrow, and the wind was gusting to at least 35-40 mph here. All of a sudden, Ray's vertigo kicked in. We had to have been up at least 2200 feet above the valley floor. We both decided that we had seen the views we came for, and turned back. 3 1/2 hours after we had started our little jaunt to the falls, we were back at the parking lot.

Back at Two Medicine Lake, we witnessed the EMTs bring a woman who had fallen back from somewhere along the lake trails . We weren't sure of her injuries, but they brought her back by boat.

The ride back to St. Mary was rich with views of the mountains and valleys as well. The word of the day is WOW.

We've decided to stay at Glacier for one more night on the other side of the park in West Glacier. Our experience at this KOA cabin has convinced us to try another over there.

Til tomorrow...
See photos of the day here.

Friday, July 4, 2008

July 4, 2008 Iceberg Lake trail, Glacier day 2


Slept in til 7:30 this morning. Although the day started out cloudy, it promised to be warm and gradually cleared. We set off for the Many Glacier area of the park, and hiked the Iceberg Lake trail, a 9.8 mile round trip. The trail ascends to a ridge that runs the majority of the trail, and from which you get a panorama view of the mountains and the valley. Along the length of the trail are carpets of wildflowers, red, orange, blue, white, pink. And as you pass through certain areas, the air is filled with the sweet scent of those flowers. Honestly, it’s like a party for your senses: the birds are singing, and the waterfalls echo through the valley, the flowers are often electric in color, the mountains seem as if you could reach out and touch them, and you can smell the dampness in the earth and the sweetness of the flowers around you.

When we went cross-country with Alex in 2000, we hiked this trail. But this time, there was a lot more snow, and snow melt. In many places along the trail, we had to tiptoe over rocks in streams, dodge waterfall spray, or walk over snow pack. In fact, the last ¾ mile of the 4.9 miles in to Iceberg Lake were completely snow covered. Nothing builds up your legs and ankles like walking uphill on slippery snow. For that matter, going downhill is harder. While Iceberg Lake was mostly thawed in 2000, it was completely frozen this year.

On the trail, we met a photographer carrying a huge film camera and tripod (the camera was probably 15” square) and the tripod was gigantic. He had carried the camera and tripod all the way up to Iceberg. When we asked if he was a commercial photographer, he said “No”. He was just photographing for his own personal pleasure. Yikes—now that’s dedication. We also stopped to speak with a young couple carrying a baby in a backpack. Man, we had trouble staying upright on the snow just by ourselves. And I wouldn’t want to be carrying a baby as I edged along a drop off while stepping through a stream. Also on the trail, one group of hikers pointed out bears high up on the mountain, and others noted mountain goats. But both sightings were well up in the higher elevations.

At the lake, we rested a bit and ate some of the snacks we had packed. As we ate, we heard a thunderous crack, and turned to the place from which the sound had come. A small rock slide started at the top, and we watched as it made its way down the cirque walls. Amazing that such a small rock slide could sound that loud. We wondered what the big ones sound like…

As we made our way back from the Lake, the skies began to darken. We had been told by a ranger that thunderstorms were moving this way. With about 2 miles left to go, it started to rain—not torrential, just big fat drops in a light rain. Since it wasn’t cold (temps were in 70s) it wasn’t any big deal. All in all, it was a great time.

Since we had no more “dinner food” back at the cabin, we treated ourselves to dinner at a local restaurant. This restaurant has been in St. Mary for over 50 years, and has that feel as well. They had home style food, well made, and in generous proportions. And the restaurant had killer views to boot. We went back to the cabin to clean up and crash, when we heard the sounds of fireworks. We opened the door, stepped out, and looked up to see fireworks erupting in the sky over the campground. A fitting end to the day. Happy Independence Day!

See photos of the day here.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

July 3, 2008 Glacier National Park-day 1


After a wonderful night's sleep in the cabin, we woke to a glorious morning--bright blue skies and as can be expected in these altitudes, a bit on the cool side-- in the 50s. It was promising to be a warm day.

Our first foray into Glacier National Park was a hike to Virginia Falls and back that took us along the edge of St. Mary Lake. It was a 6 mile hike that was fairly easy, but had fabulous payoffs for the sights along the way. Views of the mountains, the green-blue lake, and hillsides covered with wildflowers were everywhere. Ray and I each took a camera, and between us, we took about 120 pictures. One result of Ray taking a camera is that now you'll have proof that I actually came on this trip (there are photos of me). Along the trail, we came upon several waterfalls and streams that were swollen with the melt from this winter's massive snowfall.

After the hike, we drove up to Logan Pass, the midpoint of the Going to the Sun Road. The park had just opened the road for the first time yesterday. On June 11th, Glacier had a snowstorm that caused 25 avalanche paths that buried the road that had already been cleared. See a photo here of what the road looked like as late as June 23. As a matter of fact, there were jersey barriers up on parts of the road where the edge and wall had been destroyed. At the visitor's center at Logan Pass, the snow was still 8 feet high in places.

In the evening, we attended a talk given by one of the rangers on how the railroads opened up Glacier, and the automobile developed it. Pretty interesting.

See photos for today here. Til tomorrow...