Home 11/8/2013

Yesterday, (Thursday), we drove from Staunton, VA to Cuddebackville, NY (I came to fondly call it Paddywhackville) in the Catskills. Yes, it's really nowheresville.

The day had started with a bit a of spitting rain, but it was dry as we packed up for the drive north. Unfortunately, we ran into the main rainstorm, and traveled for about 4 hours in rain. By the end of the driving day, skies had cleared, and we were definitely in colder northern climes. Somewhere in PA, a doe darted in front of the truck on the highway, and gave both of us some MAJOR palpitations, especially since a large buck was starting across about 50 feet ahead of us as well. Fortunately, the doe retreated, and the buck froze as she did. All this happened in the blink of an eye.

We planned on staying at the KOA in Paddywhackville, and figured if we just showed up there would be no problem getting a spot for the night. Unfortunately, we had opted to follow the directions given by the KOA guidebook, instead of those provided by the GPS, based on the address. The KOA book had indicated that the more direct roads were steep and snaky, and could be a problem for RVs, and offered an alternative route that took us about 40 minutes out of our way. Those 40 minutes proved to be important later on when darkness became a major hindrance.

About an hour and a half ahead of our expected arrival, I called the KOA to confirm not only that we would be coming and that they had a space, but also that they were open. (Many campgrounds in the area close by mid-October.) I got an answering machine. Hmmmmmmmmm. Not good. I left a message asking them to call me back. (Maybe the desk person had stepped out to the rest room.) Tick tock, tick tock. No call. The KOA website had indicated that this campground was open all year, so we rolled the dice and headed to the KOA. Meanwhile, the sun was setting, and the cold settling in. By the time we reached the campground, it wasn't late--maybe 5:00, but it was dark. There was no one in the office, and the office was locked. There were instructions on the whiteboard outside, that latecomers could take one of 2 spots they had set aside. So, we headed for that area of the campground. Of course, the spots were not pull-throughs. Of course, the ground was wet and soggy. Of course, the angle of approach was difficult to put the trailer in the spot. Of course the utilities (water and electric) were spaced weirdly. After about 10-15 minutes of wrangling, car headlights pierced the darkness. A KOA staff member greeted us, and subsequently told us that the site into which we were trying to situate ourselves had had the water turned off, and that the campground staff had neglected to alter the latecomer spot numbers. At any rate, he led us to a nice pull through spot in which we spent the night. Let me just say that setting up in the cold really bites (just about as much as waking up to snow on the camper--see Kansas blog entry). (One side note--the camp store at Paddywhackville sold these--YUM)

Tomorrow I will post some tidbits that did not make it into our daily blog.

Road day 11/6/2013

We're one day closer to home, having driven up I81 from Tennessee to Virginia. What a beautiful drive! This road took us up the western side of the Smokies, through the beautiful hills of Tennessee and Virginia. The day started cloudy, and there had been a little rain overnight. By the time we woke and were on our way, skies were clearing. And by the time we were approaching our stopping point for the day at Staunton, VA, we had beautiful blue skies streaked with incredible patterns of cirrus clouds riding over the Smokies. So beautiful!

November 5-- Chickamauga and Chattanooga 11/5/2013

Yesterday was a driving day that took us about 420 miles from Vicksburg, MS to Chattanooga, TN. Here, our intent is to not only come a little closer to home, but also to see another chapter in the Civil War story of our country.

Chattanooga and Chickamauga were the sites of two pivotal and bloody battles of the Civil War. In 1863, Union and Confederate forces fought for control of Chattanooga, considered the gateway to the deep south. It was a key rail center fro the Confederacy, through which southern forces accessed supplies. Northern and southern forces met here in some of the bloodiest fighting of the war. We took the auto tour, which takes visitors around to some of the more important battle sites, offering an audio accompaniment on smartphone that helps to explain the significance of each stop. At one spot, the narrator of the audio presentation read a letter written by one of the soldiers who had been at the battle. The soldier described the scene he saw at the spot we were standing: the serene field in front of us today had been carpeted with dead bodies, to the extent that he could walk across the field without his feet touching the ground. Losses on both sides were second only to those at Gettysburg. More men were lost at Chickamauga than the total lost in the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812. Unlike Vicksburg, fighting occurred in and around the forests of the area.

After the auto tour, we drove to Lookout Mountain,

View from Lookout Mountain down to the Tennessee River

another site of Civil War fighting. It's hard to believe that Confederates, with a superior position at the top of the mountain, were overcome by Union soldiers who attacked by ascending the steep terrain.

Lookout Mountain offers panoramic views of the valley. We cruised the neighborhood at the top and saw some fabulous ($$$) homes that hover at the edge of the mountain. This is a beautiful area, and the trees are decked in fall color. We'd like to return some day.

Vicksburg 11/3/2013

After making a crock pot dinner to be ready on our return, we set out for the Vicksburg National Military Park.

At the Visitor Center, we watched a short movie that explained how critical it was to Union forces in the Civil War to capture Vicksburg from Confederate control. Vicksburg is situated at a critical point on the Mississippi that allowed supplies to flow to the Confederates. Cutting off this supply route was necessary for the Union Army. But its location, high on bluffs above the river, made the assault on the city very difficult. From May 18 through July 4, 1863, the city was in siege by Grant's army. Union casualties for the battle and siege of Vicksburg were 4385, Confederate, 32,697 (29,495 surrendered). The full campaign since March 29th claimed 10,142 Union, and 9091 Confederate killed and wounded. It's hard to wrap your mind around those numbers.

But this story is not one of numbers, but of the people who endured this battle: the Confederate soldiers who surrendered due to starvation and sickness, the Union soldiers killed and wounded (although death occurred more frequently due to illness than to wounds), the townspeople who hid in crudely dug caves during the siege.

The Military Park takes you on a 16 mile auto tour of the battlefield. What comes to mind as you drive the route is how different the landscape is now from what it was then. Before the Civil War, all this area had been  cleared for farming, and the battles took place on sites and fields that were completely open.
So Union forces, to defend themselves, dug trenches at night, and attacked from those positions during the day. Now, there are many trees there, planted in the 1930s to prevent erosion. All along the road, there are monuments to the various Union and Confederate units that served here.

One particularly moving monument was erected by the state of Illinois. It's a massive marble dome whose inside walls are lined with plaques listing the names of Illinois men who fought at Vicksburg. The ceiling of the

Illinois memorial

dome is open to the sky. Unfortunately for us, a family including small children ran in just as we were entering. The children ran in, screaming and laughing, sliding on the smooth marble floor. Their parents obviously had no respect for others who were visiting, nor the somber nature of the memorial that spoke of tears and loss and the over 36,000 Illinois soldiers who fought there.

We had the opportunity to see the salvaged remains of a Union Ironclad boat named the Cairo that

Remains of the Cairo

Confederates sank in the Mississippi during the siege. And the auto tour takes you into the Vicksburg National Cemetery where 17,000  Union soldiers are buried, a number unmatched by

Vicksburg National Cemetery

any other national cemetery. 75% of the dead are listed as "unknown".

The odd thing about Vicksburg is that this city on the east side of the Mississippi is very hilly. As you look across to Louisiana, you can see that the land there is absolutely flat. This is due to an oddity of geology. We had an interesting chat with a park ranger in the visitor center about Vicksburg's history, geology, and people. She is one of the reasons our National Parks are a treasure.

After the auto tour, we drove through the old Vicksburg village--obviously a work in progress. There are some beautiful historic buildings, but for every one great building, there are at least 3 or 4 empty storefronts. They've put concrete planters in the street (not on the side of the street) that are nothing short of hazardous.

Lastly, we felt compelled to visit at least one of the casinos here in Vicksburg. All I can say is that I guess we're just not casino people. We walked in, the cigarette smoke hit us in the face like a brick, we walked around the hundreds (thousands?) of slot machines, then walked out. It was weird to note that every one of the at least 30 handicap parking spots in front of the casino was taken, but the whole parking lot was no more than 1/4 full.

BTW, we really like our site in the RV park we're staying in.

November 2--The Landscape Changes 11/2/2013

Today was a driving day, as we are heading for Vicksburg, MS. Shorter days mean shorter driving time,    and to ensure that we can set up in daylight, the max we can travel is about 400 miles.

First a note about the campground at Weatherford, TX at which we stayed last night: check out the sinks--

Not to say that Texans love their state...
We did see these flags not far from the LA-TX state line on I20:

The Texas flag looked bigger and as if it were flying higher than the US flag--hmmm

Not long after our departure from Weatherford (which is to the west of Dallas), we ran into a lot of traffic on I20, most of it exiting in Canton. Then we saw a sign touting "Trade Fair". A quick Google search found what was happening: First Monday Trade Days in Canton, TX. It all began in the 1850′s when the circuit judge stopped in Canton on the first Monday of each month. This was the day the Judge held court. People from the area came to town on that day to conduct their business, stock their pantries and sit in on court proceedings … and watch a few “hangings”. History relates one incident where a man was hung for stealing his partner’s wagon of goods for trading. He is buried facing south (not east) in Hillcrest Cemetery by the First Monday grounds. Quite naturally, many also brought their own goods, produce and livestock with them to sell or trade. This took place just off the west side of the courthouse square. Most history versions include the trading of wild horses, which were rounded up in the region and brought to Canton to sell. By 1965, First Monday had outgrown the Town Square, It was then that the City of Canton purchased six acres just two blocks north of the courthouse. First Monday was moved off the square.
Originally, First Monday only “happened” on the first Monday of each month. However, now it takes place on the Thursday through Sunday before the first Monday of the month.

The one major take-away from our trip east through Texas is the difference in scenery as you drive from west to east. Pictures tell the story:

West Texas

East of Dallas

To Texas! 11/1/2013

With many miIes ahead of us, we set out early (for us) toward Texas. We have a long way to go to get back east.

Our drive took us down long straight roads with views to the horizon.
 Highlights:

• WIPP--Waste Isolation Pilot Plant--26 miles south of Carlsbad, we saw signs for this, a deep geological repository for radioactive waste.
• Wide open desert--as in desert landscape in 360 degrees
• A huge mansion in the middle of the desert behind a screen of trees along Route 180 near Seminole, TX
• Cotton and sorghum fields to the horizon on both sides of the road
• We were beyond startled when the driver's side mirror with mirror extensions (for trailer pulling) blew back into the driver's side window as a tractor trailer truck roared by us on the opposite side of the road. (180 is a 2 lane road with a 75mph speed limit. We were traveling at 63mph.)
• All along the roads, there were white balls of cotton that had blown off cotton plants from the fields. Fascinated, I asked Ray to stop, so I could pick up a few and feel raw cotton balls. We stopped along an empty stretch of road to use the trailer bathroom, and I got my raw cotton. It feels just like the cotton balls you buy in the store! (except for the seeds and sticks stuck to the raw cotton)
• I saw antelope running in the desert.
• Wind--lots of wind, all the way to Weatherford, TX, west of Dallas. There"s a reason they have wind reports on the news as part of the weather report. 

We are at a small KOA in Weatherford tonight--small as in 49 sites versus hundreds that are common to KOAs.

Grand Canyon Underground 10/31/2013

Rocky slopes and canyons, cactus, grass, thorny shrubs, and the occasional tree, who could guess at the hidden treasures deep underground? Carlsbad Cavern is one of over 300 limestone caves in a fossil reef laid down by an inland sea 250 to 280 million years ago. We opted to take the self-guided tours of the Caverns, assisted by the audio tour offered by the park. We walked down the path to the natural entrance to the cave, the same entrance used by the first explorer to investigate the cave, Jim White.

What a wonder met us on our descent into the cave. Large passageways led to small corridors which led to an incredibly grand room filled with all manner of cave "decorations": stalagmites, stalactites, straws, drapery, flows, you name it.We have visited many other caves: Mammoth Caves, Jewel Cave, Wind Cave, Luray Caverns... but this was so ....grand. What made the experience special is that we were able to walk through the cavern alone, without any accompaniment. It was quiet, and it was ... grand. In the largest "room", we saw 2 ropes suspended from a point high above us (225 feet). The audio tour we took explained that in order to explore an area above the "Big Room", early explorers attached ropes to a helium balloon which they floated up, and succeeded in attaching the ropes to a stalactite. Then one of the explorers climbed the rope to a room above--again--225 feet above the large room. To see the ropes which are still in place is to know that those explorers were CRAZY. All I could think about as we walked the 2 1/2 mile trail through the cavern was that it reminded me so much of the grandeur of the Grand Canyon, underground.

 

After walking the cavern, we took a small break, and then returned to the cave entrance to view the bat flight at sundown.Sure enough, at about 6:15, we witnessed the emergence of thousands of bats from the mouth of the cave we had just walked through. They flew out in waves, at first spiraling in the area in front of the cave, then ascending to the skies and forming ribbons flying to the south. The mass evacuation continued for at least 15-20 minutes. As the sun was going down, so were temperatures. With a brisk wind, temps felt like they were in the low 50s. While we were shivering with the cold (wearing t-shirts and jackets), we were so happy we were here in time to witness this event. Soon the bats will be gone from the area, having migrated south.

Snow in October 10/30/2013

Carlsbad, NM was our ultimate destination today, by way of White Sands National Monument. We pulled into White Sands with no real expectations for what we'd find here. What a delight! Great wave-like dunes of gypsum sand have engulfed 275 square miles of desert, creating the world's largest gypsum dunefield. I knew it would be something different when I looked at Google maps satellite picture of the place.

The ride there had us climbing the mountains and then going back down. We had a great view of the terrible smog that sits over that area. On our approach on Route 70, Border Patrol was checking all cars--ostensibly for citizenship. We were asked if we were citizens, and then allowed to continue.

White Sands is a stunning landscape of glistening white dunes. We took a few short hikes onto and around the dunes. Fall foliage on cottonwood trees and rabbitbush stood out on the stark white sands. Wind whipped the sand around and at us, creating ripples in the sand that made the scene look like a fabulous artwork. At one point on the trail, we saw what appeared to be a bush at the top of a dune. The sign there explained that we actually were standing at the crown of a cottonwood tree that was buried in a dune. As long as some leaves stay above the surface of the dune, the tree can survive. The road that runs the length of the Monument is part paved, part ... sand. When we reached the sand part, we both had the same reaction: we were driving on white sand that looked so much like snow! And we subsequently saw a grader that was grooming the road because it is constantly being covered by the wind with more sand. That grader looked way too much like a snow plow.

The view from the truck. It's NM in October not NH in December!

Such a beautiful and odd place!

The trip from Almogordo to Artesia, NM, where we were staying for the next 2 nights was fascinating. We traveled through such varied landscapes: mountainous to rolling hills decorated with golden cottonwood trees to flat desert open to the horizon. We drove through Hope, NM, a very small town studded with abandoned buildings, a store with a faded sign advertising homemade burritos, and a park designated by a sign and 3 picnic tables under shade shelters. We passed cotton fields, and oil derricks, and a natural gas field.

The KOA at which we are staying is large, clean, and the proprietors are very friendly. Tomorrow: Carlsbad Caverns!

Wind! 10/29/2013

As soon as we headed south towards Tucson, we felt the winds increase. Soon the winds were whipping, and dust was blowing across the desert through which we were driving. The dust was so thick that the distant mountains were obscured. Ray was white-knuckling the steering wheel, as we could feel the truck and trailer rock behind us. This lasted for about 70 miles from Casa Grande to Tucson. Ray did a great job getting us through this stretch. We found out after the fact, that a 19 vehicle pileup occurred on this stretch of road about an hour and a half after we passed through. Timing is everything.

The 400 miles we drove took us past walnut and pecan tree groves, several very long freight trains (100+ cars in some instances), the Continental Divide, many dust storm warning signs, one mountainous area, and several "South of the Border" wannabes. If you've ever driven south on the east coast down I95, you've seen the many billboards along the highway in North Carolina inviting you to stop in. New Mexico has ,"The Thing", "Butterfield Station", and "Continental Divide"(the roadside stop).

We passed a sign for the town of Truth or Consequences, NM, which prompted me to look up the origins of its name. Truly American.

We spent the night in a KOA in Las Cruces, NM--clean, convenient and quiet.

Taking a Break: October 27th and 28th-2013

As we usually do, we took our time packing up and set off for Scottsdale, AZ, where we will visit for a day or so with family. We were surprised at the amount of traffic we encountered as we approached the northern limits of metro Phoenix. Our trip took up through some dramatic desert scenery, and featured a major change in temperature. While the day started in the 30s, by the time we reached Scottsdale, temps were in the warm 80s. Thankfully, we had prepared by wearing t-shirts, shorts and sandals.

We will head towards New Mexico tomorrow.

Exploring Grand Canyon--October 26, 2013

Last night, temps were predicted to go down into the twenties (a 40 degree drop from daytime highs), so Ray unhooked the water hose for the night.  After filling water bottles, packing lunch and snacks, and slathering on sunscreen, we headed toward South Kaibab trail. The trail descends 1000 feet from the rim to the point we determined would be a turnaround spot, Cedar Ridge. As we set out on the trail, I made a promise to myself not to take any photos on the way down. I figured that photo breaks on the way back up would probably be appreciated.

If you enlarge this photo, you can see hikers on the trail up in switchbacks along the hill ahead.

At a breezy Ooh-Aah Point

The trail down was dusty, but as expected, spectacular. One spot on the trailhead been aptly named Ooh-Aah Point, a place on the trail that offered a 270 degree view of the canyon. Wow. We had to carefully watch our steps to avoid rocks and also mule droppings.

As we descended, in the back of my mind, I somewhat dreaded the ascending return. As the Ranger had told us: "Going down is optional, going up is mandatory." But the return from Cedar Ridge was not bad. The fact that temps were in the high 50s really helped. We were amused, amazed, and confounded to see several parents carrying babies and /or toddlers down the trail. We wondered how far would they really go before they realized they had to carry or drag their kids back up.

On our return to the rim from the trail, we set off for a different section of the rim trail, a bit west of where we had walked yesterday. To get to the trailhead we made use of the park buses. What a convenience! They allow you to be dropped off at one point of the rim trail and picked up a few miles down the road. (The shuttle system here at Grand Canyon allowed us to avoid using the truck and all here.) That part of the rim trail was gravel and took us close to the edge of some steep precipices. By the time we took our last steps on the trail,  the sun was casting golden light over the canyon making for an awesome finish to our hike.

By the time we got back to the trailer, it was almost sundown. Before we had left this morning, I'd made beef stew in the crock pot. So dinner was just about done when we returned. Let noone think we are roughing it, in the least. One last treat at Grand Canyon after dinner: another glimpse of the Milky Way.

Truly grand--October 25, 2013

Our expectation was that it would take about 3 1/4 hours to get from Page to Grand Canyon Village. We were pleasantly surprised to find ourselves at the entrance station to the Grand Canyon within 2 hours and 10 minutes. What we hadn't taken into account was that it would, in fact, take another hour to actually get to our campsite in the Grand Canyon Trailer Village. We had forgotten how huge this park is. Luckily, there was not much traffic.

Our campsite has full hookups, meaning it has water, sewer, and electric. (What? No cable???) For a National Park campsite, though, it really is luxurious. Another bonus is that it is within an easy walk to the canyon rim. After setting up, we took a short (about a mile) walk on a paved path to the Visitor Center. Temps were in the high 50s, low 60s, and very comfortable. From the Visitor Center, we walked about 2 miles along the Rim Trail, which, as the name suggests follows the South rim of the canyon. Expansive views of the canyon spread before us every step of the way.

A big difference now, from previous times we have been here, is that for most of the year, you cannot drive the main park road that goes out to Hermit"s Rest at the westernmost point of the South Rim. The park service runs natural gas powered buses on a 15 minute schedule. So we were able to walk along the rim, and then take the shuttle back to the campground.

One big surprise was that there is cell service and 3G (thank you, Verizon) here. Because the nightly temperatures fall into the 20s, we unhooked our water line for the night. It would not be nice to wake up to a burst water hose.

After dinner, we went out for a short walk away from the lights, and got the best show of the day: in the cold, clear, dry night, the Milky Way spread out in the sky before us. Spectacular!!

OMG! Antelope Canyon 10/24/2013

We were able to get a reservation for the 9:30 tour of Antelope Canyon, so we took it. Antelope canyon is a slot canyon near Page Arizona. It is located on Navajo land, and so access is via a tour offered by Navajo concessioners. We arrived early to check in, and thankfully so, because we discovered that we had come to the wrong concessioner. Our transportation to the canyon was an open air conveyance, something like picnic table benches attached to the back of a pickup truck, where you sit facing out. The ride on the pavement wasn't bad, but once we hit the sandy river bed, things got much bumpier. When we departed, it was about 45 degrees, and cloudy, making for a chilly ride.

But OMG!! We have traveled all over, and never seen anything like this. Our guide, Ardin (not sure of the spelling), was wonderful. He explained that originally the canyon was open to the public, but the Navajos would have to regularly go out and clean up trash and graffiti. So they made access only through these tours to preserve this wonder.

There were ten people in our group, and Ardin walked us through the canyon pointing out places where a particularly effective photo shot could be taken, and explaining why certain twists of rock looked the way they did.
It was amazing to hear that flash floods carry silt from the dry river bed we drove in on, and fill the canyon up, many places by up to 10 feet in depth from one flood. That same silt may be Water has sculpted the rock into fantastic twists, turns, and corkscrews, with swirls and patterns that are enhanced by the shadowy light that filters in from up above. To walk through Antelope Canyon is to walk through a miraculous art gallery.

After our trek out to Antelope Canyon, we returned to the trailer for lunch. We set out for Glen Canyon Recreation area, where we checked out the lodge and marina. A large party boat was being removed from the lake (Powell), and towed away by a tractor that was dwarfed by the enormous boat. I walked out onto the bridge that spans the Colorado River and got some great shots. Vertigo got the better of Ray when a few large tractor trailers came whizzing by and caused movement of the bridge.

Then it was time for more mundane pursuits, i.e. laundry.

A sleeping horse and a horseshoe 10/24/2013

Our destination today was Page, Arizona, located in northeastern Arizona, about a three hour drive from Cannonville (our camping spot for the last 3 nights). We drove south on route 89, which took us through some interesting country. We traveled through small towns, desert and fantastic scenery. We saw a horse completely prone on the ground in his corral, and learned that this is not unusual for horses. We passed a gas station with the highest price we've seen yet for unleaded gas $4.349 per gallon. And we passed through Red Rock Canyon-- beautiful. Shortly after we crossed the Utah-Arizona border, we arrived at Glen Canyon Dam. Construction of this dam was started in 1956. It regulates the flow of water in the Colorado River and created LakePowell behind it.

We stopped at the visitor center and took the tour into and onto the dam. The young lady who led the tour did a superb job explaining both the history and function of the dam. We learned that the town of Page was created to house workers constructing the dam. Prior to the dam construction, the area was wilderness. Its 17 square mile site was obtained from the Navajo tribe in exchange for other land they wanted. Great tour from the top of the dam down to the generator room.

After the tour, we decided to check in at our campground. It turned out to be a great deal. It's clean, quiet, and the site is level. We ate lunch, and then took off to check out Horseshoe Bend, a horseshoe-shaped meander of the Colorado River just a few miles south of Page.

From the parking area off Route 89, we followed the sandy trail down to the lookout point that stands

1000 feet above the river. So beautiful!

Our next stop was one of utility. Low on groceries, we shopped at the local Safeway, then returned to the trailer where we relaxed outside with a glass of wine. A trailer pulled in and set up a few sites away from ours, and the travelers then set their chairs up for evening beverages as well. While I set off to snap a few pictures of the gorgeous sunset, Ray engaged the newly arrived couple in conversation. It turns out that one of the woman's sisters went to BC, one to Regis, and she had gone to Boston State (Ray and  I both took classes at Boston State). Small world!

Bryce. I mean, Bryce!! 10/22/2013

This day was all about the views: from the top of the Bryce plateau down to the forested next level and back. This is an amazing and grand place. Pictures tell the story.

Kodachrome 10/21/2013

Our first stop today was Grosvenor Arch, a double arch located in Grand Staircase Escalante. To get there, we had to drive down Road 400, what they call an "unimproved road". Driving down this rutted gravel road, we rounded a curve, only to be greeted by a steer by the side of the road. OK... A little further on, we saw a speed sign for 35 mph (really??), and immediately after, the road dipped severely and we plunged into a deep pool of water. Glad we had 4WD. The arch itself is impressive, especially when framed by a gorgeous bluer than blue sky.

After investigating the area around the arch, we headed to Kodachrome Basin State Park. In 1949, members of a National Geographic expedition named the park for its spectacular colors. Geologists believe the landscape here was once similar to Yellowstone National Park, with hot springs and geysers which eventually filled with sediment and solidified. Over time, the sandstone surrounding the geysers eroded, leaving large stone spires.

We started our exploration with a hike on a loop trail that took us atop a ridge that provided phenomenal

views of the area. Our next foray took us on a trail across desert terrain covered with sagebrush and low trees. We passed several tall spires, a cave whose walls were marked with handprints (not sure if they were

left by cowboys or Indians), and a "Secret Passage", a part of the trail through a narrow canyon.

Lastly, we took a loop trail around Shakespeare Arch. All told, we figure we hiked about 7 miles all together on all trails. Such fantastic country---and it's all ours.
We were thrilled to have such comfortable hiking weather, (50s and clear), and to be able to experience all this without any company on the trails. It was blissfully quiet.

This was all topped off by the sight of the last building we saw before our return to the campground. Gotta love this country.