July 14, 2012 -- A change in plans

When we woke this morning, it was pouring rain. The weather forecast was for continued off and on rain throughout the day. We had originally planned to attend the Bastille Day celebrations in Philadelphia, and tour some of the historic sites. But with rainy, muggy weather on tap, and the fact that we were only a 45 minute drive from Philly, we made other plans.

We headed north to the winery that sells our favorite Chardonnay, Brimstone Valley Winery, in Pine Bush, NY. A 3 1/2 hour drive took us there, where we purchased a case.

From there, we headed home, arriving at about 7 p.m.

From this eclectic selection of destinations, we took away various musings and facts:

• We will probably never visit places east of the Mississippi ever again in the summer. Not because we don't appreciate the beauty and history of the places here. But---it's too hot and humid to walk around without sweating your brains out. On every single walk/hike we took, I needed to take a towel to wipe the sweat from my head and neck, or it would run into my eyes, and/or soak my shirt. This is an area best appreciated in the fall.
• We were pleasantly amazed at the lack of bugs on our hikes. We had fore-armed ourselves with 2-3 containers of bug spray for this trip, and didn't need to use any of them for any hike.
• All the Appalachian states are incredibly beautiful. As steep and craggy as the Rockies are, these mountains are a series of steep green hills and valleys. You can really understand the concept of "hollows" here. 
• Hotels would be doing their patrons a BIG favor by locating shower heads higher up on the wall.

We learned all kinds of cool things.

• Like the fact that during the American Civil War, the common term used in the United States was "sharpshooter", which is a reference to and a tribute to the Sharps rifles that were commonly used by Civil War "snipers". Those rifles could shoot accurately to 1000 yards.
• Cannon fire during the Civil War could reach 2 miles.
• To create Shenandoah National Park in 1935, they created a commission to investigate the people in that area. The "findings" were that the people were ignorant, non-religious, and probably unable to care for themselves adequately. So the federal government moved in to "help these people", by moving them out of the desired lands to property outside the proposed park. Never mind that the people had farmed and raised their families on this land for generations. 
• When Great Smoky Mountain National Park was established in 1934, 2/3 of the land had been clear-cut. Though Congress had authorized the park in 1926, there was no nucleus of federally owned land around which to build a park. John D. Rockefeller, Jr. contributed $5 million, the U.S. government added $2 million, and private citizens from Tennessee and North Carolina pitched in to assemble the land for the park, piece by piece. Slowly, mountain homesteaders, miners, and loggers were evicted from the land. This is the only National Park with no entrance fee, because it was mostly paid for by the citizens of North Carolina and Tennessee. 
• People who anchor the news on southern TV stations don't have the same accent as the people to whom they broadcast.
• West Virginia's governor was a shoe-in for the post, just based on his name: Earl Ray Tomblin.
• Robert C. Byrd, the longest serving member of the US Senate in history, has more stuff named for him in the state of West Virginia than anyone else in any other state: it brings new meaning to the words: pork barrel politics.
•  There's nothing quite like being in the woods, with no one around, and listening to the bright sound of wood thrushes singing to one another.

So, all-in-all, a wonderful trip.   2,912 miles, 104.73 gallons of gas at an average of $3.256 per gallon (highest in Rochester, NY at $3.499/gallon, cheapest in Gatlinburg, TN at $2.999/gallon). I'll be sending invitations to the pictures as I post them.  Thanks for coming along!                    

July 13, 2012 -- Flowers, trees, and light

After a drive from York, through Dutch country, and past numerous signs on local roads to "Avoid aggressive drivers", we arrived at our destination, Longwood Gardens. The day was, as usual for this trip, hot and humid. We were psyched for this visit, because at this time, there is an exhibition on Longwood grounds that has been created by light designer, Bruce Monro. We had seen pictures, but nothing prepared us for the impact of this "show".

Part of the Flower Walk

We arrived at the gardens at about 11:30 a.m., and were shocked that, for really the first time in our experience, there were few cars in the parking lots, and visitors in the garden were scarce. How lovely to be able to walk the garden paths and feel like we were strolling in our own personal garden. Longwood is the creation of Pierre duPont, who purchased a piece of property in 1906 to save an arboretum established 1798 from being sold for lumber. Subsequently, duPont developed the estate and added to it extensively. He added flower gardens, fountains and conservatories. Today, the gardens are comprised of 1077 acres, 20 outdoor and 20 indoor gardens, 4.5 acres of heated greenhouses (the conservatories),and 11,000 types of plants and trees, including 68 champion trees.

 We decided to tour the flower gardens during the day, go back to our hotel for a break and get dinner, and then go back for the light exhibition in the evening. The gardens are fabulous, a wonderful display of color, and texture, obviously perfectly professionally arranged. The 600 foot long "flower walk" takes you down a brick path lined on each side with flower gardens in successive hues of the rainbow. There are ponds on the estate, and part of the light display is arranged around them. Floating tranquilly in one lake, is one of the exhibits: comprised of foam disks topped with thousands of recycled CDs, the installation mirrors the changing hues of the surrounding landscape. Each disk looks like a lily pad.

Since the day was heating up, and I was beginning to melt (literally), we went back to the hotel and enjoyed a cold beer, then went for dinner at a local cafe. After a sensational dinner and an even better dessert, we set off for the light exhibition. Holy smokes! Nothing could have prepared us for the emotional impact of this show. In the greenhouse, during the day, we saw the installation called Light Shower. During the day, you can see teardrop shaped glass forms suspended from the ceiling. At night, this transforms into what appears to be a shower of diamonds that is reflected in the water covered sunken marble floor.

Hanging above one conservatory's green lawn, "Snowballs" features six large glass chandeliers that illuminate the indoor garden in a kaleidoscope of colors that change in unison.

Ouside, the magic continued. After a walk down a low-lighted path, we came to "Water Towers", 69 structures built of recycled one-liter water bottles filled with water, wood layers, and fiber optics connected to an LED projector and sound system. We strolled among the towers, entranced.

A small part of Forest Walk

But best of all, was an installation called "Forest Walk". The only word to describe this, is "WOW". Forest Walk is a dense area of tulip trees, oaks and maples, whose understory is the setting for 20,000 illuminated glass spheres that line the pathways. The points of light seem to spread out before you forever. The walk in the forest took at least 30 minutes, and everyone who walked the path had the same remark: WOW. It was magic; it was wonderful; it was like fairyland. So beautiful! Pictures can't do it justice.

These are just a few of the light installations. The light exhibition is there til September 29, 2012. If you can, GO!!

July 12, 2012 -- Gettysburg

The battle of Gettysburg was a turning point in the Civil War, and the war's bloodiest battle, with 51,000 casualties. 51,000 casualties in 3 days! Although we have visited the Gettysburg National Military Park before (2-3 times), the park has been renewed and renovated in recent years. Much of the nasty commercialism (billboards within sight of the cemetery) has been removed. Each time we have visited and have stood at the field where Picketts charge took place, a sense of reverence, and appreciation for the sacrifice given, an amazement at the sheer courage (or was it idiocy?) takes hold of us.

Behind the wall where Union forces waited for Confederates to attack from the tree line in the distance (3/4 mile away)(Picketts Charge)

We stopped at the visitor center after having slathered up with sunscreen. The day was hot and humid (par for the course on this trip). Our first order of business was to walk over to the National Cemetery where the Gettysburg dead were buried, and then over to the place where the Union forces met a force of 12,500 Confederate soldiers that had marched over open fields for three-quarters of a mile (see photo above). The Confederates suffered 50% losses on this one battle. This was at a time when Sharpshooters had rifles that could pick off an enemy within 1000 yards, and cannon fire could reach 2 miles. Amazing.

Up on Big Round Top hill at the Union position looking down to Devils Garden (the rocky area in the distance) where the rebels were

Then we decided to take the auto tour of Gettysburg, that takes you to all the significant places in the 3 day battle. We were able to stand at the top of Cemetery Ridge and look down across the fields to the tree line where the Confederates (a mile long attack line) emerged to try and take the center of the Union line.  Open fields, fences running across them, trenches and berms make it hard to believe the Confederates thought they could succeed.  A few rebels and their commander actually made it over the stone wall at the top before they were repulsed.  Also looking up the hill from where the Confederates charged was sobering, "What were they thinking?"  There were many stops like this, Little Round Top, the Wheatfield, the Devils Garden to name a few.

To those who believe that the Civil War is a chapter of our history that is done and closed, an incident occurred that proved otherwise to us. As we were coming back from viewing Culp's Hill, one of the stops on the auto tour, a man approached Ray and asked him to take his picture. Sure! No problem! Absolutely! The man handed his camera over to Ray, and then proceeded to his trunk and pulled out a large Confederate flag. He stretched it out with his arms, and stood in front of one of the monuments there with a big grin, and ready for his picture. Snap! The south lives, and the civil war lives on--not as bloody, but just as real.

Getting towards evening, we decided to leave Gettysburg and head for our stop for the night at York, PA, about 45 minutes away. The GPS took us down a back road that took us through small towns and rural rolling farmland-very picturesque. All of a sudden, a large sign appeared telling us that the road was closed ahead. Since there were no detour signs, we figured it must just mean that a side road was closed. Over the next rise, we discovered that, no, the road we were traveling on was closed--no detour signs, no optional roads to follow. So, we turned around and took a side road a little way back off the road we had traveled, and let the GPS take over. Sure enough, we were routed back to the main road and were on our way. BUT--a few miles along, the same "Road Closed" signs loomed. And again, there were no detour instructions. Again, we took a side road, meandered through farmland, and then, thanks to GPS, came back to the main road. I guess they just assume that if you're on these roads, you must know how to get around. We're just thankful that the ways around the closed road sections didn't take us many miles astray of our destination.

Tomorrow: Longwood Gardens!

July 11, 2012 -- An unepected jewel

We started the day, as usual, by going to the lobby and taking the motel breakfast of english muffins, cereal, and coffee. While we were there, a man came into the breakfast room, and noted the Boston College t-shirt I was wearing. He mentioned that he was a BC alumnus. Pursuing the conversation, we discovered that he had graduated in '70 (Ray in '72). We talked about our travels, and, oddly enough, found that he was from Littleton, MA, had just stayed at the same motel as us in Roanoke, and had driven the Blue Ridge Parkway, as we did, and was going to Gettysburg in a day or so, as we will. He was traveling by motorcycle. Small world.

Great Falls of the Potomac

We set off for Great Falls Park, about 12 miles outside of Washington, DC. This is a place where the Potomac River builds up speed and force as it falls over a series of steep, jagged rocks, and flows through Mather Gorge. One of the country's first canals was here. Construction, urged on by George Washington, began in 1785 and took 17 years to complete.

In 1966, this place was put into the management of the National Park system to protect and preserve the ruins of the Potowmack canal. And it is such a surprise! A short walk from the visitor center, we were treated to the sight of the wide Potomac River, rushing over and around rock piles. So beautiful and so wild! We watched as kayakers maneuvered around the falls, then carried their kayaks up to repeat their feat. Then, we took a trail along the river, that, in spite of the heat and humidity of the day, offered cooling breezes from the river. Along the trail, every so often, we had glimpses of the Mather gorge, and the river flowing through it. We were able to see remains of the canal and locks, and the ruins of the village of Matildaville that grew up to support the workers that built the canal.

After our hike, we headed north to Thurmont, MD, where we will be spending the night. The traffic was horrendous. I can't imagine dealing with this every work day: 4 lanes of bumper-to-bumper traffic. For dinner we looked to advice from tripadvisor.com, and chose a local Chinese restaurant.  Let me just say that, from our experience, it didn't deserve rave reviews...




Heading to Gettysburg tomorrow.

July 10, 2012 -- Shenandoah

Skyline Drive picks up where the Blue Ridge Parkway leaves off in the south. Shenandoah National Park was established in 1935 after the federal government forced resettlement of 465 families. Skyline Drive runs along the spine of the park, offering fabulous views of the mountains and valleys beyond.

View from an overlook on Skyline Drive

Our trip started in the rain, but once we were within 15 miles of Shenandoah, the rain stopped, and the skies cleared. The day turned warm and comfortable. Today, as yesterday, along the Blue Ridge, we had little company on the road. We stopped at many of the overlooks and enjoyed the expansive quiet, broken only by bird song. All along the roadside were large stands of wild sunflowers, cow parsnips, asters, milk weed, thistle, columbine and cohosh. So beautiful. We stopped and had lunch under a dogwood tree at one of the overlooks. It was an incredibly relaxing day.

What appears as stalagmites (growing from the ground) are just a reflection in the water

We traveled about 75 miles of the road, and exited at Luray, with our final destination as Luray Caverns. Discovered in 1878 by a local photographer, Luray Caverns is a huge tourist attraction for this area. Privately owned, they are so commercialized, we both had reservations about visiting. The $24 per ticket fee for an hour's tour seemed exorbitant. But earlier, we had read online that you get a $5 per ticket discount with a local store frequent shopper card. So we stopped at a store, bought the bread and snacks we wanted, and picked up a card. Reviews of the caverns were generally very good, so we decided to go. Boy, are we glad we did.

These caverns are truly natural wonders. The "rooms" are huge and dripping with limestone formations. There are pools so still that they are mirrors for the stalactites above (see the photo above). The effect is that it's almost impossible to determine where the water stops and the rocks begin. It's hard to stop looking at the illusion. There are huge formations that look like cloth draperies, massive columns, and even what they call a "Stalacpipe Organ". The tour was very informative, and the tour guide didn't hustle everyone along, but let people take their time to appreciate the caverns. If ever you are in this area, it's worth a visit.

Tomorrow, we head for the Great Falls of the Potomac.

July 9, 2012 -- Along the Blue Ridge

The Blue Ridge Parkway runs for 469 miles from Great Smoky Mountains National Park in the south to Shenandoah National Park in the north, where it morphs into Skyline Drive. The Blue Ridge Parkway was built to connect Shenandoah National Park to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The roadway is not maintained in the winter, and sections which pass over especially high elevations and through tunnels are often impassable and so are closed from late fall through early spring. The speed limit is never higher than 45 mph, but we found that even if the limit is 45, you can't safely drive that speed. The road is narrow and winds like a snake around the mountains, so in many places, you really can't go more than 30-35 mph. But that provides a better view of the spectacular scenery that you're passing.

Huge stands of pink and white rhododendrons framed the road for much of the ride. And there were many overlooks along the way that invited us to stop and enjoy the quiet beauty of the area. It surprised us that we really did not have a lot of company on our drive: there was hardly any traffic, and we frequently had the opportunity to sit in the quiet of an overlook and enjoy the sound of the birds and the wind in the trees without the interruption of any human company.

It's so hard to believe that as little as 80 years ago, much of this area had been largely clearcut. The trees grew back with a vengeance, and now the hills are carpeted with green. As a matter of fact, many of the overlooks were overgrown to the point that the vista that originally was visible from the spot was completely obscured by trees.

In the afternoon, we stopped at the Linville Falls area along the Parkway, and took a short hike to a few viewpoints of the falls, which sit in a gorge carved by the Linville River. When we started our walk, the skies were darkening, and we heard the rumbling of thunder. Storms were due to roll in. We trusted that we'd be done our walk in time, and we were right. It held off until early evening, after which the temperature dropped by at least 15-20 degrees.

Tomorrow, we head up Skyline Drive in Shenandoah.

July 8, 2012 -- The largest residence in the America

It took 6 years to build the unbelievable creation that is the Vanderbilt mansion in Asheville, NC called the Biltmore. Finished in 1895, it has 250 rooms, 34 bedrooms, 43 bathrooms, and 175,000 square feet (4 acres). We couldn't leave the Smoky Mountain area without visiting the Biltmore estate. At the time it was built, the property, designed by Frederick Law Olmstead,  covered 125,000 acres. Over the years, a large parcel (85,000 acres) was sold to the US government, other parcels sold, and the property now comprises 8,000 acres that is administered by the remaining Vanderbilt family. Vanderbilt's only child, Cornelia continued to live at the home til 1956 when the home was turned into a museum open to the public. It's hard not to be overwhelmed by the grandeur of the place. During the tour we saw the 70,000-gallon indoor swimming pool, 2 bowling alleys, early 20th century exercise equipment, a two-story library, and other rooms filled with artworks, furniture and 19th-century novelties such as elevators, forced-air heating, centrally-controlled clocks, fire alarms and an intercom system.  It's amazing: we saw maybe 42 areas of the house, and it took about 4 hours! There are 250 rooms! The grounds include 75 acres of gardens, a winery and an AAA 5 diamond hotel (doesn't it figure...).

They don't permit photography in the house, so I got a few pix of the outside. It was so hot, that after the tour, the thought of touring the gardens in 93 degree heat with 86% humidity with no shade, did not especially appeal to us. So we skipped the gardens and went over to the air-conditioned winery, where we were treated to a tour of the winery and a wine tasting. The lady giving the tour was especially entertaining and informative. The winery replaced a very successful dairy on the property in 1985. It is now the most visited winery in the United States.

We'd like to do a bike tour some other time in the fall. Tomorrow, we head up the Blue Ridge Parkway towards Shenandoah NP.